Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Former Anti-Corruption Czar on the 2007 Election
FT.com print article: "Whatever the outcome, little will change without comprehensive constitutional reform and a credible anti-corruption programme. Better management of presidential powers will be crucial to a stable future for Kenya. There is a significant minority willing to tolerate a mild economic reversal in the event of an Odinga victory, if that is the price that has to be paid for a correction to what is perceived as an unjust status quo. Whether Mr Odinga would be able to carry out the necessary reforms is another matter. Kenya's future prosperity and stability are at stake."
Election Season
It's election time. America's presidential nomination battle is nearing the finish line, with the Iowa caucus in early January. There's the big three on the side of Democrats, with both Obama and Clinton seeming very electable. On the Republican side, you've got Rudy, Mitt, McCain, Thompson, and Huckabee, none of whom seem very electable... (I'm an Obama fan myself.)
I watch those races with the same nerdy political excitement that I've always had for American politics. Being in Kenya has in a number of ways heightened my appreciation for the American political system. You know what I really love about the American system? Just how absurdly (and I mean that in a positive way) democratic it is.
How many positions do we vote for? In Wisconsin, to the best of my knowledge, we vote for the president, two senators, a member of the house, a governor, an attorney general, two state representatives, county executive, county representative, mayor, alderman, sheriff, coroner, and others. Off the top of my head, that's already 14. And that doesn't include the primaries for a number of those positions. Or the referenda that come up every so often.
In Kenya, under the current system, you have just three elected positions: President, Member of Parliament, and Councilor. Those positions come up for elections every five years. In the eyes of most Kenyans, it's a long five years.
The nomination system this year was actually similar to what America had a hundred years ago: back room negotiations produced a candidate and all other presidential aspirants were supposed to give up their presidential bids and unite around the negotiated candidate.
The process led to a split in the opposition and has created a a three-way race for the presidency. We're now just eight days away from the general election. Kibaki, the sitting president, has been polling at 43%, Raila Odinga at 45%, and Kalonzo Musyoka at a distant third with 10%.
I'm not a big fan of any of the three, though I admit that, given the options, I support Raila. He promises constitutional change and I believe that he has the potential to deliver it. Why? He wants a constitution that takes power away from the president. Naturally, Kibaki enjoys his powers as president and isn't keen to give them away quite yet.
If Kibaki loses, you can be sure his supporters will do everything they can to reduce the powers of an Odinga presidency. Suddenly having a powerful president doesn't seem so desirable....
Will Raila stick to his promises? I'm betting yes. He's tied himself so closely to devolution and to his “pentagon” of five former presidential candidates who support him that it'd be difficult (but not impossible) for him to ignore them once in office.
Just eight days away. I'm betting it'll be free and fair and mostly peaceful. I hope if Raila loses, he and his supporters will calmly accept the loss. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that'll happen.
I'll be viewing it from Halako's home town, Hola. It'll be my first time meeting her sisters, step mothers, 20 half-siblings, and the rest of the family. Wish me luck...
Saturday, November 03, 2007
Empowering Deaf Kenya
I haven't written on this blog for a number of months for a number of reasons, which are not really important. While I have much, much more to say (don't I always?), I wanted to post this article I was asked to write for Empowering Deaf Kenya. It hasn't posted there yet, but I'm assuming it will soon.
Here it is:
If I had all the money in the world and all the best people at my disposal, what would I do today to empower Deaf Kenyans?
1. Develop a center for KSL and Interpretation instruction.
One of the major money-making activities for the Deaf is their language. It is no secret. Many Deaf Kenyans make ends meet by teaching KSL, just like Deaf people do all around the world.
Right now the Kenyan Sign Language Research Project is clearly the center for KSL instruction and Interpreter education. Yet, there is a serious issue looming ahead: When the KIE curriculum for a diploma in KSL interpretation is approved, will KSLRP (which is a project of the University of Nairobi) have the necessary standing to submit candidates to KNEC for certification?
If it will, KSLRP will have to undergo substantial changes to prepare itself to teach the KSL interpretation curriculum. If it does not, there will be need to create another institution to be the center for Interpretation instruction. For various reasons, I think the answer might be the creation of a new institution (which could have some affiliation with KSLRP).
At any rate, there is a pressing need for extensive training of interested Deaf individuals who are interested to work in this field. They will require basic training in linguistics and teaching methodology. This is an urgent need that must be taken seriously. Kenya has already turned a quick corner with the addition of KSL to the examinable subjects in primary and secondary Deaf education. While this is, on one level, a very important step, its implementation has been hasty and wrongheaded.
Successful implementation requires thorough research into KSL and a precise understanding of the role of KSL in the classroom. As it stands, you now have teachers who have poor to modest fluency in KSL teaching from textbooks that treat KSL as a written language heavily tied to English.
There is a need for interested stakeholders to act quickly to develop the necessary research, training, and lobbying necessary for this to be successfully employed.
2. Strengthen KNAD branches.
It is no secret that KNAD, as it stands today, is very weak. KNAD lacks a vibrant staff, funding, ongoing programs, capacity, trust with donors, and trust from the Deaf community it is supposed to represent. Strengthening KNAD is a popular goal, but implementation has been difficult. Just as the national political scene in Kenya has begun to talk about Majimbo and Devolution, I think there is a need for the Kenyan Deaf community to seriously consider these issues in the context of KNAD.
My understanding of KNAD is that originally it was a group of different branches that all operated independently, with their own constitutions, that were finally brought together with the creation of KNAD. In other words, decision-making was made at the branches. Donors moved away from this approach by funding a strong central governing body that was then responsible for controlling the money. When donors lost trust in KNAD, many of the branches, which now relied on Nairobi to pass around the money, also collapsed. (I know it's a simplification of the specific situations at each branch, but clearly the collapse of KNAD has severely hurt many of the branches.)
The branches should be the eyes and hands of the central organization. KNAD is only as strong as its branches. Every effort of KNAD must be reflected on the ground at each of its branches. If KNAD is lobbying for KSL to be recognized as an official language of Kenya, each of the branches must carry out the same effort in their district: contacting the local MPs, city councils, provincial administrators, whoever. Awareness-building doesn't only take place in Nairobi; it has to take place all the way down to the sub-location level. KNAD can't do that, only its branches can!
Furthermore, strengthening the branches means building the capacities of the individuals at the branch level. As this happens, more and more Deaf Kenyans can build the capacity for dealing with bigger budgets, larger projects, etc. As that happens, they can show Deaf Kenyans that they qualify to take a seat at the national level as a result of the successes that they've made at the branch level. Let's end big man politics in the Deaf community and start looking at results. Who can deliver? It doesn't matter where you're from or who your friend is. The only question is: can you make a meaningful difference in the lives of Deaf Kenyans?
3. Fund a network of Deaf leaders who can actively lobby for their issues.
In the long run, I believe the empowered branches should come back together and reevaluate what they want from a national board and who should be on it. The problem is that this process will take years.
There is a need now to begin lobbying for certain issues. The Kenyan Deaf need leaders to stand up, unite, and fight for their rights. The key to making this happen, however, is getting various leaders to put aside their differences, deal with money openly and transparently, and clearly match funding for results. I don't mean making their salaries dependent on the success of their lobbying efforts, only that they need to accomplish certain milestones to demonstrate to the deaf community and donors that they are earning their money.
4. Develop a center for the development of resources designed to help Deaf Kenyans learn other languages (esp. English and Swahili)
One of the worst problems facing Deaf people around the world is a strong proficiency in the writing of a hearing language. Yes, of course, there are a number of amazing Deaf authors who can write very eloquently, but it is clear, all over the world, that getting a child who is pre-lingually deaf and grew up with hearing parents to obtain native or near-native fluency in reading/writing a hearing language is a major challenge.
There are new opportunities and technologies (I mean computers, not hearing aids!) that can now be used to help Deaf people improve their fluency in a given written language. Think eLearning. Think games. Think interactive dialogs that test your ability to understand a wide array of grammatical features of a given language. The possibilities are amazing.
We just need the money and the talent.......
After having worked in and around the Kenyan Deaf community for a total of three years, those are my perceptions of some of its needs, and possible approaches to those needs. But as a hearing foreigner, I can't pretend that I know the Kenyan Deaf community or that I represent it. Deaf Kenyans need to stand up and say what they think. And that is something that I look forward to....
Here it is:
If I had all the money in the world and all the best people at my disposal, what would I do today to empower Deaf Kenyans?
1. Develop a center for KSL and Interpretation instruction.
One of the major money-making activities for the Deaf is their language. It is no secret. Many Deaf Kenyans make ends meet by teaching KSL, just like Deaf people do all around the world.
Right now the Kenyan Sign Language Research Project is clearly the center for KSL instruction and Interpreter education. Yet, there is a serious issue looming ahead: When the KIE curriculum for a diploma in KSL interpretation is approved, will KSLRP (which is a project of the University of Nairobi) have the necessary standing to submit candidates to KNEC for certification?
If it will, KSLRP will have to undergo substantial changes to prepare itself to teach the KSL interpretation curriculum. If it does not, there will be need to create another institution to be the center for Interpretation instruction. For various reasons, I think the answer might be the creation of a new institution (which could have some affiliation with KSLRP).
At any rate, there is a pressing need for extensive training of interested Deaf individuals who are interested to work in this field. They will require basic training in linguistics and teaching methodology. This is an urgent need that must be taken seriously. Kenya has already turned a quick corner with the addition of KSL to the examinable subjects in primary and secondary Deaf education. While this is, on one level, a very important step, its implementation has been hasty and wrongheaded.
Successful implementation requires thorough research into KSL and a precise understanding of the role of KSL in the classroom. As it stands, you now have teachers who have poor to modest fluency in KSL teaching from textbooks that treat KSL as a written language heavily tied to English.
There is a need for interested stakeholders to act quickly to develop the necessary research, training, and lobbying necessary for this to be successfully employed.
2. Strengthen KNAD branches.
It is no secret that KNAD, as it stands today, is very weak. KNAD lacks a vibrant staff, funding, ongoing programs, capacity, trust with donors, and trust from the Deaf community it is supposed to represent. Strengthening KNAD is a popular goal, but implementation has been difficult. Just as the national political scene in Kenya has begun to talk about Majimbo and Devolution, I think there is a need for the Kenyan Deaf community to seriously consider these issues in the context of KNAD.
My understanding of KNAD is that originally it was a group of different branches that all operated independently, with their own constitutions, that were finally brought together with the creation of KNAD. In other words, decision-making was made at the branches. Donors moved away from this approach by funding a strong central governing body that was then responsible for controlling the money. When donors lost trust in KNAD, many of the branches, which now relied on Nairobi to pass around the money, also collapsed. (I know it's a simplification of the specific situations at each branch, but clearly the collapse of KNAD has severely hurt many of the branches.)
The branches should be the eyes and hands of the central organization. KNAD is only as strong as its branches. Every effort of KNAD must be reflected on the ground at each of its branches. If KNAD is lobbying for KSL to be recognized as an official language of Kenya, each of the branches must carry out the same effort in their district: contacting the local MPs, city councils, provincial administrators, whoever. Awareness-building doesn't only take place in Nairobi; it has to take place all the way down to the sub-location level. KNAD can't do that, only its branches can!
Furthermore, strengthening the branches means building the capacities of the individuals at the branch level. As this happens, more and more Deaf Kenyans can build the capacity for dealing with bigger budgets, larger projects, etc. As that happens, they can show Deaf Kenyans that they qualify to take a seat at the national level as a result of the successes that they've made at the branch level. Let's end big man politics in the Deaf community and start looking at results. Who can deliver? It doesn't matter where you're from or who your friend is. The only question is: can you make a meaningful difference in the lives of Deaf Kenyans?
3. Fund a network of Deaf leaders who can actively lobby for their issues.
In the long run, I believe the empowered branches should come back together and reevaluate what they want from a national board and who should be on it. The problem is that this process will take years.
There is a need now to begin lobbying for certain issues. The Kenyan Deaf need leaders to stand up, unite, and fight for their rights. The key to making this happen, however, is getting various leaders to put aside their differences, deal with money openly and transparently, and clearly match funding for results. I don't mean making their salaries dependent on the success of their lobbying efforts, only that they need to accomplish certain milestones to demonstrate to the deaf community and donors that they are earning their money.
4. Develop a center for the development of resources designed to help Deaf Kenyans learn other languages (esp. English and Swahili)
One of the worst problems facing Deaf people around the world is a strong proficiency in the writing of a hearing language. Yes, of course, there are a number of amazing Deaf authors who can write very eloquently, but it is clear, all over the world, that getting a child who is pre-lingually deaf and grew up with hearing parents to obtain native or near-native fluency in reading/writing a hearing language is a major challenge.
There are new opportunities and technologies (I mean computers, not hearing aids!) that can now be used to help Deaf people improve their fluency in a given written language. Think eLearning. Think games. Think interactive dialogs that test your ability to understand a wide array of grammatical features of a given language. The possibilities are amazing.
We just need the money and the talent.......
After having worked in and around the Kenyan Deaf community for a total of three years, those are my perceptions of some of its needs, and possible approaches to those needs. But as a hearing foreigner, I can't pretend that I know the Kenyan Deaf community or that I represent it. Deaf Kenyans need to stand up and say what they think. And that is something that I look forward to....
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
"You are Walking on Soil Where Your Ancesters Are Sleeping"
I'm reading too many books right now. I'm at that point where I'm generally interested in three separate books, but haven't really sat down to finish one.
I'm reading E. Kezilahabi's Dunia Uwanja wa Fujo (The World is a Chaotic Place) and really think that this author needs to be translated into English. It's that good. (Incidentally, he got a graduate degree from the University of Wisconsin-Madison.)
I've read Rosa Mistika (a girl's name) and was quite impressed by it. Today, I came across this paragraph in Dunia and just really wanted to share it.
A mother, ill and dying, is giving her final farewell to her teenage son, who now stands to inherit a good deal of money and the family wealth all on his own. She worries about his judgment and his ability to handle the responsibilities that now await him. She gives three pieces of advice.
First, she says, don't marry for beauty. Marry a woman who has good behavior. Second, be careful with the money that you inherit.
It's her third point that I want to share:
"You are walking on soil where the ancestors are sleeping." Few people really stop to think about this. That millions of people have come before us and when their time ends, they are gone. We inherit the earth from them. And, with our every step, we should remember those who came before us.
It is the hope of the dying and, to the living in this day and age, sounds more like sappy poetry...
I'm reading E. Kezilahabi's Dunia Uwanja wa Fujo (The World is a Chaotic Place) and really think that this author needs to be translated into English. It's that good. (Incidentally, he got a graduate degree from the University of Wisconsin-Madison.)
I've read Rosa Mistika (a girl's name) and was quite impressed by it. Today, I came across this paragraph in Dunia and just really wanted to share it.
A mother, ill and dying, is giving her final farewell to her teenage son, who now stands to inherit a good deal of money and the family wealth all on his own. She worries about his judgment and his ability to handle the responsibilities that now await him. She gives three pieces of advice.
First, she says, don't marry for beauty. Marry a woman who has good behavior. Second, be careful with the money that you inherit.
It's her third point that I want to share:
Jambo la tatu na la mwisho ni hili. Tukumbuke sisi wazazi wako. Kumbuka unatembea juu ya udongo ambamo ndani mwake wahenga wamelala. Kwa muda wote utakaokanyaga undongo huu, tukumbuke kwa kila tendo utendalo, kwani matendo mabaya huwachukiza wazima na wafu.
The third and final thing is this. Remember us, your parents. Remember you are walking on soil inside of which the ancestors are sleeping. For the whole time you step on this soil, remember us in everything you do, after all, bad actions cause hatred among the living and the dead.
"You are walking on soil where the ancestors are sleeping." Few people really stop to think about this. That millions of people have come before us and when their time ends, they are gone. We inherit the earth from them. And, with our every step, we should remember those who came before us.
It is the hope of the dying and, to the living in this day and age, sounds more like sappy poetry...
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Five Days of Earthquakes?
Nationmedia.com | Daily Nation | NEWS | Tremors shake the country again: "Earth tremors shook several parts of the country intermittently for the fourth consecutive day yesterday as local experts conceded that they were yet to gather enough data on the unusual occurrence."
Originally I was going to comment on this story to say that I cannot believe that there have been earthquakes here for four days and I never felt any of them!
Then, while I was writing that last post, the ground started shaking under my feet and my desk started shaking too. I heard a low rumbling sound and it hit me! My First Earthquake!
Others were reported as being less than excited about their earthquake experience:
“From midnight, we had a restless night after the first tremor. We had all moved out of our five storey building with our belongings and entered into our vehicles prepared to leave,” a resident of Parklands Aqilah Kauser said.
Originally I was going to comment on this story to say that I cannot believe that there have been earthquakes here for four days and I never felt any of them!
Then, while I was writing that last post, the ground started shaking under my feet and my desk started shaking too. I heard a low rumbling sound and it hit me! My First Earthquake!
Others were reported as being less than excited about their earthquake experience:
“From midnight, we had a restless night after the first tremor. We had all moved out of our five storey building with our belongings and entered into our vehicles prepared to leave,” a resident of Parklands Aqilah Kauser said.
The VP Offers Insight Bure
Nationmedia.com | Daily Nation | NEWS | Sh80m survey to gather data on the disabled launched: "The Vice-President, Mr Moody Awori, who officially launched the exercise at Bontana Hotel in Nakuru, said many of the disabled cases had not been able to fully take advantage of the free education because they lack hearing devices." (emphasis mine)
Now, in case you ever become vice president and find yourself talking about "disability," I thought I would give you all some pointers so you don't a) seem unaware of the issues and b) annoy people who are.
1. Not all disabled people are deaf or hard-of-hearing. I'm not even sure it's fair to say that most are. The fact that no one really knows roughly how many disabled people there are, let alone deaf vs. non-deaf, makes this an important study.
[Update: I'm not exactly sure if Awori means to imply that most of the "disabled cases" are deaf students or if most of the "disabled cases" that have failed to take advantage of the free education are deaf students. I'm skeptical on both claims.]
2. Not all deaf/hard-of-hearing people benefit from "hearing devices." People become deaf for different reasons. Some deaf can benefit from receiving amplified sound, others benefit from receiving electrical impulses to auditory nerves inside the cochlea. Others are just plain deaf.
3. Even those who benefit from devices like cochlear implants or hearing aids (see links above) will likely still need to learn a signed language (in Kenya's case, KSL). Sticking a deaf kid with a hearing aid in a hearing classroom will definitely boost attendance of deaf children in schools, but brings with it a whole host of problems.
4. Deaf kids aren't benefiting as much as their hearing counterparts from the government's free primary education because.... the deaf schools (residential programs) are not free! The government program does not cover boarding schools.
And, on this point, I'd like us all pause for a brief Swahili lesson: bure.
This word conveys two different concepts.
Concept #1: Serikali hii imesaidia wananchi kwa kuanzisha elimu bure kwa shule za msingi.
English Translation: This government has helped the citizens by starting free primary education.
Meaning of Bure: Free
Concept #2: Ubaya wake, lakini, ni kwamba hii elimu ni bure!
English Translation: The bad thing about it, though, is that this education is useless!
Meaning of Bure: Useless
I like that bure means both of those things. It takes you down the same path as "There's no such thing as a free lunch." If it is free, it's probably useless.
Seeing free primary education in a hearing school with 1,500 students and 20 teachers, I saw elimu bure.
For many deaf children, the government's promise of elimu bure has been just that, elimu bure.
[Update 2: It occurs to me that I say "useless education" when what I really mean is useless "free education."]
[Update 3: A nod to Kyle for the advice on making the distinction between "sign language" and "signed languages." There is no one "sign language", there are different "signed languages" that share features as a result of being signed and not spoken. To wit, saying "speech language" implies it is one, "spoken languages" acknowledges there are many.]
Now, in case you ever become vice president and find yourself talking about "disability," I thought I would give you all some pointers so you don't a) seem unaware of the issues and b) annoy people who are.
1. Not all disabled people are deaf or hard-of-hearing. I'm not even sure it's fair to say that most are. The fact that no one really knows roughly how many disabled people there are, let alone deaf vs. non-deaf, makes this an important study.
[Update: I'm not exactly sure if Awori means to imply that most of the "disabled cases" are deaf students or if most of the "disabled cases" that have failed to take advantage of the free education are deaf students. I'm skeptical on both claims.]
2. Not all deaf/hard-of-hearing people benefit from "hearing devices." People become deaf for different reasons. Some deaf can benefit from receiving amplified sound, others benefit from receiving electrical impulses to auditory nerves inside the cochlea. Others are just plain deaf.
3. Even those who benefit from devices like cochlear implants or hearing aids (see links above) will likely still need to learn a signed language (in Kenya's case, KSL). Sticking a deaf kid with a hearing aid in a hearing classroom will definitely boost attendance of deaf children in schools, but brings with it a whole host of problems.
4. Deaf kids aren't benefiting as much as their hearing counterparts from the government's free primary education because.... the deaf schools (residential programs) are not free! The government program does not cover boarding schools.
And, on this point, I'd like us all pause for a brief Swahili lesson: bure.
This word conveys two different concepts.
Concept #1: Serikali hii imesaidia wananchi kwa kuanzisha elimu bure kwa shule za msingi.
English Translation: This government has helped the citizens by starting free primary education.
Meaning of Bure: Free
Concept #2: Ubaya wake, lakini, ni kwamba hii elimu ni bure!
English Translation: The bad thing about it, though, is that this education is useless!
Meaning of Bure: Useless
I like that bure means both of those things. It takes you down the same path as "There's no such thing as a free lunch." If it is free, it's probably useless.
Seeing free primary education in a hearing school with 1,500 students and 20 teachers, I saw elimu bure.
For many deaf children, the government's promise of elimu bure has been just that, elimu bure.
[Update 2: It occurs to me that I say "useless education" when what I really mean is useless "free education."]
[Update 3: A nod to Kyle for the advice on making the distinction between "sign language" and "signed languages." There is no one "sign language", there are different "signed languages" that share features as a result of being signed and not spoken. To wit, saying "speech language" implies it is one, "spoken languages" acknowledges there are many.]
Friday, June 29, 2007
More Videos From Josh
Josh is continuing to post videos to YouTube. He says he is now "hooked." I'll take his word for it. He's posting videos here. Keep an eye on his useful and rather humorous descriptions for his videos. On "Jomo Kenyatta... and his International Conference Center":
Just a couple hours ago I did a test of my internet connection. This was the result:
Update: I tried again. This time I got a whopping 62kbps! I went ahead and opened all of the videos... Pretty good stuff. I also took another look at the KSL video. Must have been a bit nervous because I'm signing fast.
Here is a poorly filmed peek at the Jomo Kenyatta International Conference Center in downtown Nairobi. Jomo Kenyatta was Kenya's first president (1964-1978). The guy's on their paper money. The airport I flew into is Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. To make an American comparison, he's like Reagan on steroids over there.Now, to be honest, I haven't viewed most of these videos because my internet connection is a little bit less than good.
Just a couple hours ago I did a test of my internet connection. This was the result:
Update: I tried again. This time I got a whopping 62kbps! I went ahead and opened all of the videos... Pretty good stuff. I also took another look at the KSL video. Must have been a bit nervous because I'm signing fast.
Monday, June 25, 2007
KSL on Mount Longonot
This is a video of me signing in Kenyan Sign Language about Mount Longonot, Naivasha, and the Great Rift Valley. We filmed this at the top of Mount Longonot, after a tiring climb.
Special thanks to Josh for putting this together and uploading it to YouTube. Most of my friends haven't really seen me sign, and most of the world hasn't seen KSL. I am not a Kenyan, nor is KSL my first language, so this isn't quite a perfect representation, but it's something.
Right now, there's no audio that goes along with it, which means those of you who don't know KSL are missing out. (I think that's about 90% of my readers.)
We also filmed versions of me speaking in English and Swahili. It's essentially the same message, though I could never quite remember all the details from one take to the next. Unfortunately the audio didn't quite work out due to all the wind.
Josh might be able to play around with the audio file to make it more audible, but I'm afraid that's too much work. I might try to record an audio file that we could dub over the video, one version in English, another in Swahili. Or I might just write up a brief note about what I've signed. What would you want to see? Add a comment or send me an email...
Special thanks to Josh for putting this together and uploading it to YouTube. Most of my friends haven't really seen me sign, and most of the world hasn't seen KSL. I am not a Kenyan, nor is KSL my first language, so this isn't quite a perfect representation, but it's something.
Right now, there's no audio that goes along with it, which means those of you who don't know KSL are missing out. (I think that's about 90% of my readers.)
We also filmed versions of me speaking in English and Swahili. It's essentially the same message, though I could never quite remember all the details from one take to the next. Unfortunately the audio didn't quite work out due to all the wind.
Josh might be able to play around with the audio file to make it more audible, but I'm afraid that's too much work. I might try to record an audio file that we could dub over the video, one version in English, another in Swahili. Or I might just write up a brief note about what I've signed. What would you want to see? Add a comment or send me an email...
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
The Millipede And The Snake
Guest Post: Josh Goller
The last week of May, I was fortunate enough to spend a week with Kevin and Halako at their home in Nairobi. Leading up to the trip, I'd dubbed the journey as the "opportunity of a lifetime" to friends, family and colleagues as I couldn't fathom how I'd manage to get to that part of the world otherwise.
Indeed, the week was packed full of new experiences. Eating fish with my hands in a tiny restaurant/shack, cramming aboard crowded matatus, negotiating prices with local artists at a street market, seeing African wildlife, relaxing in serene gardens and memorials. Throw in the climb of Mt Longonot and I had an experience both eye-opening and awe-inspiring. However, upon returning to the United States I was overcome with the realization that it was the little things that really left an impact on me. The day-to-day things.
Kevin and I engaged in many long-winded discussions throughout the week, but a recurring theme was that of "functionality." Kenyans differ from Americans in many ways, but one of the greatest is that in Kenyan culture, whether an item is functional is the biggest factor in determining an object's worth. Clearly, much of American culture tends to bypass functionality as a given and jumps right to style, luxury, and status as premier criteria of worth.
Kevin pointed out that Kenyans crave style, luxury and status as well, but in a nation as young as Kenya, these simply aren't always possible. It should come as no surprise that the things we take for granted in America aren't always a given in Kenya.
I have no savings, plenty of debt from student loans and credit cards, and this laptop on which I type is probably the most valuable thing I own. Yet, as an American tourist gallivanting around Nairobi, I felt as rich as Croesus. Kevin's standard of living is higher than the average Kenyan, however I was amazed that he could exist so comfortably without a refrigerator. Having just moved into an apartment with in-unit washer and dryer, I was confounded by the amount of time it takes to wash clothes by hand. When we hiked through pasture-land at the base of Mt Longonot, we encountered children in the midst of a three mile trek just to get fresh water. Daily living simply takes more work in Kenya.
Before I left for my trip, someone told me that traveling to Kenya would "make you count your blessings that you live in America" and to a certain extent I did. Upon my return, I reveled in washing a week's load of dirty laundry at the push of a button, and getting back to my routine of work, entertainment, and recreational softball leagues. But more than counting my blessings, I found myself questioning where the exact line lies between luxury and excess.
Clearly, Kenyans are a happy people. Kevin joked with complete strangers at a restaurant as if they were close friends. In situations where Americans would be icy and stand-offish, Kenyans are vibrant and outgoing. So to what degree do all these perks, these appliances, which one cannot argue aid in functionality, improve one's life? Do these gadgets and gizmos that shave hours off household chores and other domestic duties really just free up a lot more time to worry and fuss about existential crises?
Most Americans don't need to spend an entire Saturday washing clothes or walking three miles for drinking water. But does this make us happier? Are all these machines that do our daily chores for us really a blessing? Without having to sweat to get things done, I'm left with all this extra time and often I fill it with activities that, in the end, are probably harmful to me. Would some of my anxiety and subsequent time-killing behaviors be alleviated if I had to bust my hump a bit more just to get by?
Halako told me an old Kenyan parable, which I will paraphrase (probably poorly) here:
I don't know if there's any moral to this story, or if its simply myth, but I can make the shaky comparison between Kenyans as the snake and Americans as the millipede. Kenyans don't have as many means and have to endure the dirt and dust, but at least they can see what really matters. Americans have plenty of means, but too often are blind to the path to a happy and fulfilling existence.
Is either the snake or the millipede better off than the other? I'm not really in a position to say, but as a millipede, I must admit I enjoyed the chance to live as a snake for the week.
The last week of May, I was fortunate enough to spend a week with Kevin and Halako at their home in Nairobi. Leading up to the trip, I'd dubbed the journey as the "opportunity of a lifetime" to friends, family and colleagues as I couldn't fathom how I'd manage to get to that part of the world otherwise.
Indeed, the week was packed full of new experiences. Eating fish with my hands in a tiny restaurant/shack, cramming aboard crowded matatus, negotiating prices with local artists at a street market, seeing African wildlife, relaxing in serene gardens and memorials. Throw in the climb of Mt Longonot and I had an experience both eye-opening and awe-inspiring. However, upon returning to the United States I was overcome with the realization that it was the little things that really left an impact on me. The day-to-day things.
Kevin and I engaged in many long-winded discussions throughout the week, but a recurring theme was that of "functionality." Kenyans differ from Americans in many ways, but one of the greatest is that in Kenyan culture, whether an item is functional is the biggest factor in determining an object's worth. Clearly, much of American culture tends to bypass functionality as a given and jumps right to style, luxury, and status as premier criteria of worth.
Kevin pointed out that Kenyans crave style, luxury and status as well, but in a nation as young as Kenya, these simply aren't always possible. It should come as no surprise that the things we take for granted in America aren't always a given in Kenya.
I have no savings, plenty of debt from student loans and credit cards, and this laptop on which I type is probably the most valuable thing I own. Yet, as an American tourist gallivanting around Nairobi, I felt as rich as Croesus. Kevin's standard of living is higher than the average Kenyan, however I was amazed that he could exist so comfortably without a refrigerator. Having just moved into an apartment with in-unit washer and dryer, I was confounded by the amount of time it takes to wash clothes by hand. When we hiked through pasture-land at the base of Mt Longonot, we encountered children in the midst of a three mile trek just to get fresh water. Daily living simply takes more work in Kenya.
Before I left for my trip, someone told me that traveling to Kenya would "make you count your blessings that you live in America" and to a certain extent I did. Upon my return, I reveled in washing a week's load of dirty laundry at the push of a button, and getting back to my routine of work, entertainment, and recreational softball leagues. But more than counting my blessings, I found myself questioning where the exact line lies between luxury and excess.
Clearly, Kenyans are a happy people. Kevin joked with complete strangers at a restaurant as if they were close friends. In situations where Americans would be icy and stand-offish, Kenyans are vibrant and outgoing. So to what degree do all these perks, these appliances, which one cannot argue aid in functionality, improve one's life? Do these gadgets and gizmos that shave hours off household chores and other domestic duties really just free up a lot more time to worry and fuss about existential crises?
Most Americans don't need to spend an entire Saturday washing clothes or walking three miles for drinking water. But does this make us happier? Are all these machines that do our daily chores for us really a blessing? Without having to sweat to get things done, I'm left with all this extra time and often I fill it with activities that, in the end, are probably harmful to me. Would some of my anxiety and subsequent time-killing behaviors be alleviated if I had to bust my hump a bit more just to get by?
Halako told me an old Kenyan parable, which I will paraphrase (probably poorly) here:
Long ago, when snakes had legs and millipedes had eyes, a snake came across a millipede. The snake coveted the millipedes' eyes and offered to trade his legs for them. As a result, the millipede was left with extra legs and the snake had to slither on his belly in the dust but he could see. Since that time, the millipede has been walking around, trying to feel where the snake is, and the snake is sliding around looking for the millipede so he can get his legs back.
I don't know if there's any moral to this story, or if its simply myth, but I can make the shaky comparison between Kenyans as the snake and Americans as the millipede. Kenyans don't have as many means and have to endure the dirt and dust, but at least they can see what really matters. Americans have plenty of means, but too often are blind to the path to a happy and fulfilling existence.
Is either the snake or the millipede better off than the other? I'm not really in a position to say, but as a millipede, I must admit I enjoyed the chance to live as a snake for the week.
Monday, June 18, 2007
It's Funny Because It's True
Thinking about coming to Kenya, but not exactly sure if you want to commit the time or financial resources? Consider this video... Next thing you know, you'll be on a plane out here.....
Update: Where are my manners? Thanks to RPCV Hester D. for the heads-up...
Update: Where are my manners? Thanks to RPCV Hester D. for the heads-up...
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Nairobi Explosion
So, a day after a rather unpleasant experience, an explosion went off in downtown Nairobi.
The Nation reports the following:
Some interesting things to note:
The Nation reports the following:
“By any standards, it was a very small explosion. We are not down-playing the incident but it even did not blow up tyres of a vehicle that was just two metres away.”So far, preliminary investigations have showed, according to police, that no combustion or high explosives have been detected from the scene.
Now, I don't know that exploding tires should be the determining factor of whether an explosion is big, but I absolutely agree it wasn't nearly as large as first reports made it out to be. One person has died and about 40 people were injured.
Some interesting things to note:
- Suspicion falls on two groups of people: suspected Mungiki members and Somali radicals. Initial reports talked of suicide bombers with dynamite. That was clearly an over-reaction, and pure speculation.
- Location, location, location. Yes, this is a semi-busy bus terminal. But it is far from the busiest. As a terrorist attack, the less-than luxurious Ambassadeur Hotel seems an odd choice. Furthermore, the explosion seems to have happened outside of the little-known City Gate Restaurant, an unlikely place to try to impact a maximum amount of casualties. Whatever the target was, it was not the sidewalk in front of the City Gate Restaurant.
- I happened to be in town at the time of the explosion. I was coming from the police station, where no one seemed concerned about what was happening, walked about a half-block away from where the explosion was and boarded a bus--all without hearing a thing or seeing any panic.
Monday, June 11, 2007
An Open Letter
10 June 2007
Dear Guy with the Big Puffy Navy Blue Jacket, Jeans, Baseball Cap Who Kept Looking Over His Shoulder and His Three Associates,
I wondered what you thought of Anna Karenina. Not an easy read, huh? As I'm sure you'll soon discover, Tolstoy is an amazing author. The way that he can get into a person's head, and interpret their most trivial emotions is just breathtaking. His powerful command of language to accurately convey feelings, thoughts, and emotions is, I think you'll agree, pretty much incomparable.
You'll notice that I only had 90 pages of the book left to read. (wink) I've long been aware that the book ends tragically. Now I'm just not sure how it happens. Perhaps you can write me a brief explanation? Did you see it coming?
If not, I'll understand. It's a real time commitment! (LOL!) And English is probably not your first language anyway. (Nor Russian for that matter!)
K.W. Wamitila's Mayai Waziri wa Maradhi na Hadithi Nyingine may be more up your respective allies. This book of Swahili short stories is truly unique. I put in that black bag next to Anna Karenina just the other day because I wanted to read the title story by E. Kezilahabi again. “Eggs Minister of Diseases” is the literal translation. It's a bizarre title and the futuristic dystopia, of a governmental minister haunted by bad dreams, his own shady past, and the fears and paranoia inspired by his autocratic government, definitely threw me off.
Though my memory is hazy, I wouldn't quite say that it had the same effect as the choke-hold, take-the-guy's-wallet-phone-and-bag-on-a-busy-street-on-a-Sunday-morning did. (Smile!)
While it's a bit more of a political science-y kind of book, I wonder what you all might think of Illicit: How Smugglers, Traffickers and Copycats are Hijacking the Global Economy. Is it inspirational for guys like you?
By the way, did you get to read that special on Mungiki in the Sunday Nation I had? Do you guys think Mungiki is as widespread as some people fear it is? Can the government really bring it down? Is the government being too harsh on suspected Mungiki?
As for the wallet, did you see my driver's license there? Isn't that just a ridiculous picture? The strange shadows made it look like I had a mullet! While I kinda wish I had it back, I won't mind never seeing that picture again!
You're probably slightly annoyed that I did that whole “phone lock” thing where when you switch the phone's SIM card, it asks you for the password. Probably meant you had to pay someone a couple hundred shillings to reset it. Sorry! I'll give you a hint: it starts with a 7.... Even still, the Sony Ericsson T610 will probably fetch you two or three thousand shillings.
Altogether it should mean you end up with something like 4,000/-. (Unfortunately, most Kenyans aren't big into reading so you probably won't get more than a couple hundred shillings for those books....) Divided between four people, it comes to about $15 per person.
I'd ask you if you thought it was worth it, but I'm assuming you're not all that disappointed. Sure it's a fraction of what you hoped for with a white guy, but the chances of anyone catching you are pretty slim. I went to the police station and someone told me I'd have to pay a private investigator 10,000/- ($150) for them to try to catch you. As you may have guessed by now, I'm not the kind of person who can afford that!
Oh, and by the way, you don't have to worry about returning the ATM card! Instead of troubling you all, I just decided that it'd be easier to cancel it and order a new one.
Anyway, if we do get the chance to meet up again, I hope it's under better circumstances! If you let me keep my wallet (hint, hint), I'll buy the four of you cups of chai and some light and fluffy maandazi! Otherwise, it'll have to be on you!
Dear Guy with the Big Puffy Navy Blue Jacket, Jeans, Baseball Cap Who Kept Looking Over His Shoulder and His Three Associates,
I wondered what you thought of Anna Karenina. Not an easy read, huh? As I'm sure you'll soon discover, Tolstoy is an amazing author. The way that he can get into a person's head, and interpret their most trivial emotions is just breathtaking. His powerful command of language to accurately convey feelings, thoughts, and emotions is, I think you'll agree, pretty much incomparable.
You'll notice that I only had 90 pages of the book left to read. (wink) I've long been aware that the book ends tragically. Now I'm just not sure how it happens. Perhaps you can write me a brief explanation? Did you see it coming?
If not, I'll understand. It's a real time commitment! (LOL!) And English is probably not your first language anyway. (Nor Russian for that matter!)
K.W. Wamitila's Mayai Waziri wa Maradhi na Hadithi Nyingine may be more up your respective allies. This book of Swahili short stories is truly unique. I put in that black bag next to Anna Karenina just the other day because I wanted to read the title story by E. Kezilahabi again. “Eggs Minister of Diseases” is the literal translation. It's a bizarre title and the futuristic dystopia, of a governmental minister haunted by bad dreams, his own shady past, and the fears and paranoia inspired by his autocratic government, definitely threw me off.
Though my memory is hazy, I wouldn't quite say that it had the same effect as the choke-hold, take-the-guy's-wallet-phone-and-bag-on-a-busy-street-on-a-Sunday-morning did. (Smile!)
While it's a bit more of a political science-y kind of book, I wonder what you all might think of Illicit: How Smugglers, Traffickers and Copycats are Hijacking the Global Economy. Is it inspirational for guys like you?
By the way, did you get to read that special on Mungiki in the Sunday Nation I had? Do you guys think Mungiki is as widespread as some people fear it is? Can the government really bring it down? Is the government being too harsh on suspected Mungiki?
As for the wallet, did you see my driver's license there? Isn't that just a ridiculous picture? The strange shadows made it look like I had a mullet! While I kinda wish I had it back, I won't mind never seeing that picture again!
You're probably slightly annoyed that I did that whole “phone lock” thing where when you switch the phone's SIM card, it asks you for the password. Probably meant you had to pay someone a couple hundred shillings to reset it. Sorry! I'll give you a hint: it starts with a 7.... Even still, the Sony Ericsson T610 will probably fetch you two or three thousand shillings.
Altogether it should mean you end up with something like 4,000/-. (Unfortunately, most Kenyans aren't big into reading so you probably won't get more than a couple hundred shillings for those books....) Divided between four people, it comes to about $15 per person.
I'd ask you if you thought it was worth it, but I'm assuming you're not all that disappointed. Sure it's a fraction of what you hoped for with a white guy, but the chances of anyone catching you are pretty slim. I went to the police station and someone told me I'd have to pay a private investigator 10,000/- ($150) for them to try to catch you. As you may have guessed by now, I'm not the kind of person who can afford that!
Oh, and by the way, you don't have to worry about returning the ATM card! Instead of troubling you all, I just decided that it'd be easier to cancel it and order a new one.
Anyway, if we do get the chance to meet up again, I hope it's under better circumstances! If you let me keep my wallet (hint, hint), I'll buy the four of you cups of chai and some light and fluffy maandazi! Otherwise, it'll have to be on you!
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
By the way....
I got this great email from an ex-girlfriend of mine. She just got married and is obviously beaming with excitement. She writes:
Actually, I'm just teasing. She married a great guy and I couldn't be happier for her.
In her email, she also writes:
All in good time, dear readers....
Thanking for the break-up, okay, I can understand that. Having it make her life? Yeah, okay. But with four exclamation points? Does it really call for four exclamation points?!Thanks for the break up... it made my life!!!!
Actually, I'm just teasing. She married a great guy and I couldn't be happier for her.
In her email, she also writes:
Considering that this question could be of potential interest to a number of other people, I figured I could post that response here:What are you doing that's keeping you so busy?
Okay, so it's not the most polished summary of what I'm up to, but it'll do. Anyway, still busy... Hope to post some thoughts on my friend Josh's visit soon. I've also invited him to do the same.writing scripts, preparing for filming, directing films, calling expert validation committee meetings, drafting grammar explanations, dialogs, testing questions, preparing e-learning activities, helping re-write proposals for interpreter training of trainers, writing reports of workshops, setting up a launch party for the rollout of an online resource center, trying to get the minister of youth affairs to attend, showing a friend around Kenya, giving a presentation at an e-learning conference, blah blah blah
All in good time, dear readers....
Monday, May 14, 2007
Expert: Raila Has Sensible Vision, Little Chance
Or... "Expert: Kalonzo Musyoka has no business running for president"
This article sizes up the two heavyweights in the opposition party's primaries, with an eye toward the general election.
The author is Ahmednasir Abdullahi, a former chairman of the influential Law Society of Kenya. He makes the argument that the former front-runner, Kalonzo Musyoka has no credibility and is economically out-of-touch with reality. That might be true.
Polls suggest that Musyoka's popularity is dropping. The media seem to favor a Raila vs. Kibaki match up, and now the people do as well.
To Raila's credit, out of all the presidential hopefuls in ODM-Kenya, he alone projects strength. He can draw crowds at the drop of the hat. He has a long history of fighting for democratization and the opening of political space. He's even pledged to create a strong post for a Prime Minister, which would seem to actually take away the majority of his potential presidential powers.
The author doesn't recognize that Raila, too, is compromised by his former cooperation with the old, corrupt ruling KANU party. And that he, too, ditched it when he saw that he wasn't going to be chosen for president. That Raila is prone to outrageous comments, always alleging that there are massive conspiracies, including plots to kill him, but providing little evidence.
(There is, to be fair to Raila, a history of prominent Luo politicians being murdered: Tom Mboya, Robert Ouko, and, apparently, Peter Okondo and Prof. Mbai.)
On top of that, Raila has reportedly admitted some involvement in a 1982 coup attempt against President Moi. Kenyans have seen what happens to countries where rulers are chosen by coups instead of elections; it ain't pretty and they don't want it.
Until now, Raila has banked on support from the Luo. In fact, he has a massive influence in Luo politics and it would be political suicide for a Luo to criticize Raila.
Despite that, he still seems to be the most viable opponent to President Kibaki. Though, since he's such a polarizing figure, it's hardly clear he can pull it off.
This article sizes up the two heavyweights in the opposition party's primaries, with an eye toward the general election.
The author is Ahmednasir Abdullahi, a former chairman of the influential Law Society of Kenya. He makes the argument that the former front-runner, Kalonzo Musyoka has no credibility and is economically out-of-touch with reality. That might be true.
Polls suggest that Musyoka's popularity is dropping. The media seem to favor a Raila vs. Kibaki match up, and now the people do as well.
To Raila's credit, out of all the presidential hopefuls in ODM-Kenya, he alone projects strength. He can draw crowds at the drop of the hat. He has a long history of fighting for democratization and the opening of political space. He's even pledged to create a strong post for a Prime Minister, which would seem to actually take away the majority of his potential presidential powers.
The author doesn't recognize that Raila, too, is compromised by his former cooperation with the old, corrupt ruling KANU party. And that he, too, ditched it when he saw that he wasn't going to be chosen for president. That Raila is prone to outrageous comments, always alleging that there are massive conspiracies, including plots to kill him, but providing little evidence.
(There is, to be fair to Raila, a history of prominent Luo politicians being murdered: Tom Mboya, Robert Ouko, and, apparently, Peter Okondo and Prof. Mbai.)
On top of that, Raila has reportedly admitted some involvement in a 1982 coup attempt against President Moi. Kenyans have seen what happens to countries where rulers are chosen by coups instead of elections; it ain't pretty and they don't want it.
Until now, Raila has banked on support from the Luo. In fact, he has a massive influence in Luo politics and it would be political suicide for a Luo to criticize Raila.
Despite that, he still seems to be the most viable opponent to President Kibaki. Though, since he's such a polarizing figure, it's hardly clear he can pull it off.
The End of a Dubious Distinction?
Business Daily Africa - Kenya wins new backers in war over optic cable: "Upon completion next year, the $80 million optic cable is expected to connect East Africa to the rest of the world, bringing to an end the dubious distinction it has had as the only region with no link to the global optic fibre network."
Well, it's about time.... The article shows an interesting dynamic between South Africa and Kenya, feuding over the terms of how to distribute bandwidth. South Africa favors an agreement that seems to bolster its own Telkom, which brings worries of having South Africa serve as the local bully.
Kenya has the World Bank, NEPAD, and, now, Burundi, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Uganda on its side.
Does that mean that the South African project EASSy will co-exist with Kenya's TEAMs project? Will countries be members of both or be forced to choose between. Can the TEAMs Project eventually expand out to the same 33 countries that originally signed on to the EASSy project? I'm not sure.
But the more competition, the better!
Well, it's about time.... The article shows an interesting dynamic between South Africa and Kenya, feuding over the terms of how to distribute bandwidth. South Africa favors an agreement that seems to bolster its own Telkom, which brings worries of having South Africa serve as the local bully.
Kenya has the World Bank, NEPAD, and, now, Burundi, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Uganda on its side.
Does that mean that the South African project EASSy will co-exist with Kenya's TEAMs project? Will countries be members of both or be forced to choose between. Can the TEAMs Project eventually expand out to the same 33 countries that originally signed on to the EASSy project? I'm not sure.
But the more competition, the better!
Saturday, May 12, 2007
KQ 507
There's been so much that's gone on locally that now trying to recap it all is too overwhelming. The major story of the past week has been the crash of Flight KQ 507.
Last Saturday, all of the news stations stopped their regular broadcasts and spent many hours reviewing the same, uninformative story: the plane has gone missing somewhere over Cameroon, the plane sent out a distress signal, efforts made to recover the plane have not been successful. The only updates that really came forward that entire day were about the number and nationalities of passengers.
The Kenyan government sent a delegation, headed by the Transport Minister Mwakwere, to work closely with the Cameroonian government on the investigation. The governments have agreed to send the black box to Canada, which is seen as neutral ground. The official reason was that it was neutral because America would be biased to protect Boeing, Europe would be biased against it to support Airbus. Pretty cynical, huh?
Another reason would be that Canada is both a French- and English-speaking nation. Cameroon is French-speaking; Kenya is English-speaking. Also, I'm not sure if either Kenya or Cameroon really has the facilities to do this on their own; or that they would trust the other to do it.
Apparently Kenya had a bad experience with the Ivory Coast in 2000 when its plane crashed in the ocean, killing 169 people. The Kenyan Media reported that the Ivory Coast government shared its findings with the Kenyan Government, but apparently refused to make the report public. Though, a quick search led me to this report...
The 114 who died included nine Kenyans (all employees of Kenya Airways) and one American.
Since then, the focus has been on why the plane crashed just a few miles from the runway and what could possibly have caused it.
It turns out that the American who died was Dr. Albert Henn. He had been working at the Liverpool VCT, which offers unique HIV/AIDS to Deaf Kenyans. A number of deaf Kenyans were distraught at the news and remembered him fondly.
Monday is a national day of remembrance for those who died in the crash.
Last Saturday, all of the news stations stopped their regular broadcasts and spent many hours reviewing the same, uninformative story: the plane has gone missing somewhere over Cameroon, the plane sent out a distress signal, efforts made to recover the plane have not been successful. The only updates that really came forward that entire day were about the number and nationalities of passengers.
The Kenyan government sent a delegation, headed by the Transport Minister Mwakwere, to work closely with the Cameroonian government on the investigation. The governments have agreed to send the black box to Canada, which is seen as neutral ground. The official reason was that it was neutral because America would be biased to protect Boeing, Europe would be biased against it to support Airbus. Pretty cynical, huh?
Another reason would be that Canada is both a French- and English-speaking nation. Cameroon is French-speaking; Kenya is English-speaking. Also, I'm not sure if either Kenya or Cameroon really has the facilities to do this on their own; or that they would trust the other to do it.
Apparently Kenya had a bad experience with the Ivory Coast in 2000 when its plane crashed in the ocean, killing 169 people. The Kenyan Media reported that the Ivory Coast government shared its findings with the Kenyan Government, but apparently refused to make the report public. Though, a quick search led me to this report...
The 114 who died included nine Kenyans (all employees of Kenya Airways) and one American.
Since then, the focus has been on why the plane crashed just a few miles from the runway and what could possibly have caused it.
It turns out that the American who died was Dr. Albert Henn. He had been working at the Liverpool VCT, which offers unique HIV/AIDS to Deaf Kenyans. A number of deaf Kenyans were distraught at the news and remembered him fondly.
Monday is a national day of remembrance for those who died in the crash.
The Answer, Of Course, is Everything
I walked into the coffee shop, shocked, as I took a glance at who sitting at the table waiting for me. Here she was: the one who wanted to be a Peace Corps volunteer, the one who my father said wanted to meet me, and, much to my surprise, the one who I saw sign language interpreting just one month ago.
Though it's our first time to truly meet, we hugged each other. Is this because of the norms of deaf culture? Or is it that we've been so connected for so long, that it seems inevitable that we will become close friends? That our ties to Peace Corps, Kenya, and the Deaf Community will keep us inextricably linked for years?
In six months, I had moved from Gede to New London to Madison and now to Milwaukee. I spent weeks with a general sense of uneasiness, trying to reestablish friendships that had survived on three-paragraph emails once every six months. I struggled trying to whittle my two-year experience into a five-minute story that could be easily digested.
Even after all that time, I wasn't very good at it. My sentences would begin with "In Kenya..." and I would bite my tongue, knowing that I was creating this huge distance between myself and whoever I was talking with. They would nod and glance off to the side, wondering how they could possibly respond. Wondering if it's polite to ask questions. Or wrong to dramatically change the conversation to something they can talk about a bit more comfortably.
***
Beth and I spent a couple minutes of reflecting on how strange it was to have seen and even talked to each other before even knowing who each other was, much less that we were emailing each other! As the conversation shifted to my experience in Kenya with the Peace Corps, I wasn't really sure of what to say or how to say it. "When I was getting ready to go into the Peace Corps, what would I have wanted to know ahead of time?" I asked myself.
The answer, of course, is everything.
Luckily, Beth was of the same mind. I told her much more than she could possibly have absorbed, frantically trying to cover as much ground as I could. She was the first person I met who was actually interested in all the details. Or at least put up with all of my details to get the answers she wanted.
***
Nearly a year later, on the other side of the globe, Beth is sleeping on a thin mattress on our dining/guest room floor. It is, of course, a huge sense of pride for me: being able to host Peace Corps volunteers. I hated being so disoriented in Nairobi. I hated not really knowing enough about Kenya's history. I hated feeling like I needed to figure everything out for myself.
Meeting with people who knew America and who knew Kenya was always so exciting for me. I met an American Anthropologist who, among other things, is an expert on the political economy of the Kenyan-grown, organic stimulant khat, often closely associated with trigger-happy Somalis. I got to know people from the American Embassy and listen to them talk about working with the Muslim community along the coast of Kenya.
Spending two years in the village, you tend to not see the larger picture: of what happened before you, what's happening around you, and what's in the pipeline. Getting to see that was enormously refreshing for me. I hoped that I could offer that for Beth.
***
What brings her to Nairobi is a workshop on sign language interpreting, one that my organization happens to be co-sponsoring. In America, it turns out, Beth had run an interpreter training program for sign language interpreters. I knew she was good, just didn't know she was that good. Now she was co-facilitating this workshop.
This is what Beth is most qualified to do: train sign language interpreters in Kenya. (There is a huge need for this.) It also happens to be what she most wants to do. Unfortunately, it's outside of what Peace Corps wants her to do. She's supposed to be a teacher in a deaf unit in a rural village called Siaya.
She has great potential to make a meaningful impact here, which isn't something you can say about a whole lot of people in the development industry. I've been happy to show her the ropes, give her advice, and do my best to make her realistic about what she's getting herself into. Now we just need to work on getting her to do what she does best!
Correction: Originally I wrote she's a teacher at a deaf school. She's actually a teacher in a hearing school with a small deaf unit. May seem like a insignificant distinction to the outside world, but for those in the know, it's a world apart...
Though it's our first time to truly meet, we hugged each other. Is this because of the norms of deaf culture? Or is it that we've been so connected for so long, that it seems inevitable that we will become close friends? That our ties to Peace Corps, Kenya, and the Deaf Community will keep us inextricably linked for years?
In six months, I had moved from Gede to New London to Madison and now to Milwaukee. I spent weeks with a general sense of uneasiness, trying to reestablish friendships that had survived on three-paragraph emails once every six months. I struggled trying to whittle my two-year experience into a five-minute story that could be easily digested.
Even after all that time, I wasn't very good at it. My sentences would begin with "In Kenya..." and I would bite my tongue, knowing that I was creating this huge distance between myself and whoever I was talking with. They would nod and glance off to the side, wondering how they could possibly respond. Wondering if it's polite to ask questions. Or wrong to dramatically change the conversation to something they can talk about a bit more comfortably.
***
Beth and I spent a couple minutes of reflecting on how strange it was to have seen and even talked to each other before even knowing who each other was, much less that we were emailing each other! As the conversation shifted to my experience in Kenya with the Peace Corps, I wasn't really sure of what to say or how to say it. "When I was getting ready to go into the Peace Corps, what would I have wanted to know ahead of time?" I asked myself.
The answer, of course, is everything.
Luckily, Beth was of the same mind. I told her much more than she could possibly have absorbed, frantically trying to cover as much ground as I could. She was the first person I met who was actually interested in all the details. Or at least put up with all of my details to get the answers she wanted.
***
Nearly a year later, on the other side of the globe, Beth is sleeping on a thin mattress on our dining/guest room floor. It is, of course, a huge sense of pride for me: being able to host Peace Corps volunteers. I hated being so disoriented in Nairobi. I hated not really knowing enough about Kenya's history. I hated feeling like I needed to figure everything out for myself.
Meeting with people who knew America and who knew Kenya was always so exciting for me. I met an American Anthropologist who, among other things, is an expert on the political economy of the Kenyan-grown, organic stimulant khat, often closely associated with trigger-happy Somalis. I got to know people from the American Embassy and listen to them talk about working with the Muslim community along the coast of Kenya.
Spending two years in the village, you tend to not see the larger picture: of what happened before you, what's happening around you, and what's in the pipeline. Getting to see that was enormously refreshing for me. I hoped that I could offer that for Beth.
***
What brings her to Nairobi is a workshop on sign language interpreting, one that my organization happens to be co-sponsoring. In America, it turns out, Beth had run an interpreter training program for sign language interpreters. I knew she was good, just didn't know she was that good. Now she was co-facilitating this workshop.
This is what Beth is most qualified to do: train sign language interpreters in Kenya. (There is a huge need for this.) It also happens to be what she most wants to do. Unfortunately, it's outside of what Peace Corps wants her to do. She's supposed to be a teacher in a deaf unit in a rural village called Siaya.
She has great potential to make a meaningful impact here, which isn't something you can say about a whole lot of people in the development industry. I've been happy to show her the ropes, give her advice, and do my best to make her realistic about what she's getting herself into. Now we just need to work on getting her to do what she does best!
Correction: Originally I wrote she's a teacher at a deaf school. She's actually a teacher in a hearing school with a small deaf unit. May seem like a insignificant distinction to the outside world, but for those in the know, it's a world apart...
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Philippines PCV Dies
A tragic story was forwarded my way about Peace Corps Volunteer Julia Campbell from the Philippines who died from what, at first glance, seems to be a tragic hiking accident.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Kenyatta's First Wife Died, Never a First Lady
Jomo Kenyatta's first wife, who he never divorced, died a few days ago, and barely a peep was heard. Her burial was attended by President Kibaki, along with a number of other political figures, including her co-wife's son turned presidential contender, Uhuru Kenyatta.
But it didn't make the front page, or even page two. As this Standard article shows, she was ignored by Kenyatta after he left for England (second wife), came back to Kenya (third wife, who died), and was finally freed from prison (fourth wife).
But it didn't make the front page, or even page two. As this Standard article shows, she was ignored by Kenyatta after he left for England (second wife), came back to Kenya (third wife, who died), and was finally freed from prison (fourth wife).
CDF: All Wrong
In 2003, the Kenyan goverment established the Constituency Development Fund (CDF), which takes 2.5% of total annual revenue and redirects it to each of Kenya's 210 constituencies. Apparently this has added up to KES 100m per constituency.
(Technicalities seem to have held up the use of this money in Halako's home constituency of Galole, which the Nation notes "is one of the few constituencies that have not had electricity or a tarmac road since independence.")
There are a number of reasons why this whole system is chaotic. Chief among them is that it means the Kenyan Government is handing over all of this money to one person to use this money as s/he feels fit.
There are three fundamental flaws to this set-up:
1) The only real check as to whether MPs are appropriately allocating funds is an election; this means the MP has major incentives to favor certain populations and ignore others.
2) The allocations are done without a larger sense of planning. Build a road here, pay these students' school fees, plant some trees there. But how will these funds be most effectively used over the next five years to truly bring development to the constituency? No answer. The focus is, of course, on short-term political gains.
3) MPs are supposed to be MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT. They shouldn't be carrying millions of shillings back to their district and trying to figure out how best to allocate those monies for all of the constituencies many needs. That should be done by other institutions! How about democractizing government on the local levels (mayors, council members) and let them figure out how best to use this money.
(Technicalities seem to have held up the use of this money in Halako's home constituency of Galole, which the Nation notes "is one of the few constituencies that have not had electricity or a tarmac road since independence.")
There are a number of reasons why this whole system is chaotic. Chief among them is that it means the Kenyan Government is handing over all of this money to one person to use this money as s/he feels fit.
There are three fundamental flaws to this set-up:
1) The only real check as to whether MPs are appropriately allocating funds is an election; this means the MP has major incentives to favor certain populations and ignore others.
2) The allocations are done without a larger sense of planning. Build a road here, pay these students' school fees, plant some trees there. But how will these funds be most effectively used over the next five years to truly bring development to the constituency? No answer. The focus is, of course, on short-term political gains.
3) MPs are supposed to be MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT. They shouldn't be carrying millions of shillings back to their district and trying to figure out how best to allocate those monies for all of the constituencies many needs. That should be done by other institutions! How about democractizing government on the local levels (mayors, council members) and let them figure out how best to use this money.
Kenya in the "War on Terrorism," 2
The Nation does a special on America's war on terrorism, with its own exclusive report of Kenya's transfer of terror suspects to Ethiopia and Somalia. Unfortunately, the article is so jam-packed with details that the narrative glue comes apart, and it's hard to fully process the article once you've read it.
In an editorial, the Nation says,
Yes, terrorism is a clear and present danger. Indeed, during the last decade
Kenyans have twice been attacked by terrorists. It is important to catch the
culprits and bring them to book, but we have laws and due process must be seen
to have been followed.
Shrugging off the rule of law and repeatedly being seen as unfair and unjust in its treatment of Muslims could turn out to be a liability for this government. I think this government should be asking itself, how do we convince the moderate Muslims that we're doing the right thing?
I don't think anyone is asking that question, which might turn out to be a major strategic error.
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Kenya in the News
A quick tour of Kenya via the newspapers.
Party Politics
Good news for Kenya's leading opposition party, Orange Democratic Movement-Kenya. The Liberal Democratic Party, which is a corporate member of ODM-Kenya, has decided to scale down its party activities in support of ODM-Kenya activities. Though, the article suggests that Presidential candidate Raila Oginga Odinga is throwing his lot with ODM-Kenya, while his fellow presidential contender Kalonzo Musyoka wants LDP to maintain robust activities.
Is this a sign that Musyoka wants the option of using LDP as a vehicle for his presidential campaign if he loses the ODM-Kenya nomination? Would LDP withdraw from ODM-Kenya and leave Raila for Musyoka? Seems hard to believe....
In other news, ODM-Kenya has embraced the ruling party's macro-economic program. ODM-Kenya certainly made a stink about various privatization measures that the government was enacting, but argued the problem was that the privatized companies were being bought up by governmental cronies.
At any rate, they seemed to come out anti-business and pro-"equality." Now they claim that they are more pro-business than Narc-Kenya. Both parties are actually pretty new and it's hard for anyone to be certain about their true political and economic philosophies.
Business
The article also notes the Economist Intelligence Unit forecasts a slight drop in economic growth over the next two years due to "constrained capacity." I don't have the $200 that the Economist Intelligence Unit charges to find out just exactly what they mean by that, though I'm guessing it refers to poor physical infrastructure and the strength of financial institutions.
Capacity is also hampering oil flow in the country, leading to fuel shortages in some areas.
The roads have reached such a point that Kenyans are clammoring to pay tolls to improve them!
NYTimes Columnist Thomas Friedman has taken his World is Flat argument to Kenya. (Articles one, two, and three via Free Democracy.)
Certainly he'll be cheered by the news that the government is trying to connect schools to the internet, establishing ICT hubs in every constituency across the country, and the state-owned Telekom talks of setting up WiFi networks.
And globalization marches on as coffee houses begin to swamp Nairobi, as Sasini, the tea manufacturer now looks to become a major competitor. (Most Kenyans prefer tea to coffee; Sasini thinks it has an advantage here. But I don't know anyone who buys Sasini tea. I also don't like their commercials.)
Tribalism
Okech Kendo argues that presidential elections by runoff (50% + 1 is needed to stay in office) is the cure for tribalism. Kenya has a history (1992 and 1997) of an unpopular president who is able to stay in power through manipulation by spliting the opposition. This isn't a bad idea at all.
The pro-government forces are now advocating for the same to be true for members of Parliament, which will be more difficult for the opposition to swallow.
But I think they should consider the value of another condition that already exists. Currently, to win the presidency, you have to win at least 25% of the vote in five out of eight provinces. This too is a deterrent to tribalism. It wouldn't be hard to imagine a presidential contender that appeals heavily to the Kikuyu population and another large tribe, they could muster up the 50% and ignore other parts of Kenya.
Balancing regional interests, are, after all, what led to the creation of the Electoral College in America.
Other News
Kenya's Anti-Corruption Agency seems to be doing its work, though the Attorney General's office hasn't exactly impressed anybody with its willingness to take action.
Tanzanians are worried about Kenya, afraid that closer economic integration proposed in the East African Community will result in money, labor and capital flowing out of Tanzania and into Kenya.
My old stomping grounds of Malindi make the paper for the district hospital being disconnected from the water supply and the inevitable end of tourist season that prompts the closing of an estimated 1,200 villas and hotels, and laying off 4,000 workers.
Sadly, a deaf man gets mauled to death by lions on the eve of his wedding.
Party Politics
Good news for Kenya's leading opposition party, Orange Democratic Movement-Kenya. The Liberal Democratic Party, which is a corporate member of ODM-Kenya, has decided to scale down its party activities in support of ODM-Kenya activities. Though, the article suggests that Presidential candidate Raila Oginga Odinga is throwing his lot with ODM-Kenya, while his fellow presidential contender Kalonzo Musyoka wants LDP to maintain robust activities.
Is this a sign that Musyoka wants the option of using LDP as a vehicle for his presidential campaign if he loses the ODM-Kenya nomination? Would LDP withdraw from ODM-Kenya and leave Raila for Musyoka? Seems hard to believe....
In other news, ODM-Kenya has embraced the ruling party's macro-economic program. ODM-Kenya certainly made a stink about various privatization measures that the government was enacting, but argued the problem was that the privatized companies were being bought up by governmental cronies.
At any rate, they seemed to come out anti-business and pro-"equality." Now they claim that they are more pro-business than Narc-Kenya. Both parties are actually pretty new and it's hard for anyone to be certain about their true political and economic philosophies.
Business
The article also notes the Economist Intelligence Unit forecasts a slight drop in economic growth over the next two years due to "constrained capacity." I don't have the $200 that the Economist Intelligence Unit charges to find out just exactly what they mean by that, though I'm guessing it refers to poor physical infrastructure and the strength of financial institutions.
Capacity is also hampering oil flow in the country, leading to fuel shortages in some areas.
The roads have reached such a point that Kenyans are clammoring to pay tolls to improve them!
NYTimes Columnist Thomas Friedman has taken his World is Flat argument to Kenya. (Articles one, two, and three via Free Democracy.)
Certainly he'll be cheered by the news that the government is trying to connect schools to the internet, establishing ICT hubs in every constituency across the country, and the state-owned Telekom talks of setting up WiFi networks.
And globalization marches on as coffee houses begin to swamp Nairobi, as Sasini, the tea manufacturer now looks to become a major competitor. (Most Kenyans prefer tea to coffee; Sasini thinks it has an advantage here. But I don't know anyone who buys Sasini tea. I also don't like their commercials.)
Tribalism
Okech Kendo argues that presidential elections by runoff (50% + 1 is needed to stay in office) is the cure for tribalism. Kenya has a history (1992 and 1997) of an unpopular president who is able to stay in power through manipulation by spliting the opposition. This isn't a bad idea at all.
The pro-government forces are now advocating for the same to be true for members of Parliament, which will be more difficult for the opposition to swallow.
But I think they should consider the value of another condition that already exists. Currently, to win the presidency, you have to win at least 25% of the vote in five out of eight provinces. This too is a deterrent to tribalism. It wouldn't be hard to imagine a presidential contender that appeals heavily to the Kikuyu population and another large tribe, they could muster up the 50% and ignore other parts of Kenya.
Balancing regional interests, are, after all, what led to the creation of the Electoral College in America.
Other News
Kenya's Anti-Corruption Agency seems to be doing its work, though the Attorney General's office hasn't exactly impressed anybody with its willingness to take action.
Tanzanians are worried about Kenya, afraid that closer economic integration proposed in the East African Community will result in money, labor and capital flowing out of Tanzania and into Kenya.
My old stomping grounds of Malindi make the paper for the district hospital being disconnected from the water supply and the inevitable end of tourist season that prompts the closing of an estimated 1,200 villas and hotels, and laying off 4,000 workers.
Sadly, a deaf man gets mauled to death by lions on the eve of his wedding.
Kenya in the "War on Terrorism"
In my previous post on monuments in Nairobi, I did not mention the August 7th Memorial for the 1998 American Embassy bombing. It's a small park in downtown Nairobi where the old American embassy once stood. There's an information center about the events of that day, with horrific pictures and pointed text.
(Unfortunately, while the information center does create a pretty moving depiction of that day, its displays have a number of embarrasing misspellings, awkward phrasings, as well as highly pixelated photographs.)
Since the bombing, Kenya has been a major ally in America's global war on Al Qaeda and its followers and sympathizers.
Recently, the Kenyan government has turned over a terror suspect to the American government, which sent him to Guantanamo Bay. He is believed to be involved in a 2002 terrorist bombing of a Mombasa Hotel as well as the attempted downing of an Israeli airliner.
Prompts some interesting questions:
1) Why wasn't he tried by the Kenyan government for the crimes he committed on Kenyan soil?
2) Why was he transferred to the American government? The Israeli government would seem to have greater jurisdiction, considering a number of its civilians were killed and its airliner was targeted. Or do Americans now have jurisdiction over all Al Qaeda terrorist suspects everywhere?
There's also allegations that the U.S. is operating a secret prison in Ethiopia and that Kenya has sent suspects there to be interrogated by U.S. agents. Ethiopia has admitted holding 41 terror suspects there, and U.S. agents admit that they've done interrogations there, but denies it's a secret U.S.-run prison. (here and here)
Egypt's now recalling its teachers from Kenya, afraid that they'll be accused of being terror suspects.
(Unfortunately, while the information center does create a pretty moving depiction of that day, its displays have a number of embarrasing misspellings, awkward phrasings, as well as highly pixelated photographs.)
Since the bombing, Kenya has been a major ally in America's global war on Al Qaeda and its followers and sympathizers.
Recently, the Kenyan government has turned over a terror suspect to the American government, which sent him to Guantanamo Bay. He is believed to be involved in a 2002 terrorist bombing of a Mombasa Hotel as well as the attempted downing of an Israeli airliner.
Prompts some interesting questions:
1) Why wasn't he tried by the Kenyan government for the crimes he committed on Kenyan soil?
2) Why was he transferred to the American government? The Israeli government would seem to have greater jurisdiction, considering a number of its civilians were killed and its airliner was targeted. Or do Americans now have jurisdiction over all Al Qaeda terrorist suspects everywhere?
There's also allegations that the U.S. is operating a secret prison in Ethiopia and that Kenya has sent suspects there to be interrogated by U.S. agents. Ethiopia has admitted holding 41 terror suspects there, and U.S. agents admit that they've done interrogations there, but denies it's a secret U.S.-run prison. (here and here)
Egypt's now recalling its teachers from Kenya, afraid that they'll be accused of being terror suspects.
So It Goes, Kurt Vonnegut
Kurt Vonnegut died. In my late teens, his works were a real delight for me to read. I read Mother Night, Cat's Cradle, Slaughterhouse-Five, and Breakfast of Champions.
I still carry those stories with me, in the deep recesses of my mind, forgetting the details, but remembering my sheer delight in finding a narrator that fully grasped the paradox that despite the world's horrors and tragedies, we go on. The survivors move on and still try to find meaning in life.
I still carry those stories with me, in the deep recesses of my mind, forgetting the details, but remembering my sheer delight in finding a narrator that fully grasped the paradox that despite the world's horrors and tragedies, we go on. The survivors move on and still try to find meaning in life.
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Pasaka Kenya
It was the day before Pasaka (Easter) when Kevin asked me about how people in Kenya celebrate Easter and some of the things they do. So the following is part of the questions and answers that we discussed.
Kevin: Wakenya wanasherekea Pasaka?
Do Kenyans celebrate Easter?
Halako: Unaniuliza? Hata wewe unajua.
You're asking me? You know!
Kevin: Si nauliza?
I'm asking you, aren't I?
Halako: Si unajua.
But you know!
Wanasherekea sana. Hasa wanaenda Friday na Sunday. Hata wengine walianza kusherekea jana pia. Wanaimba, wanaongea mambo ya siku za mwisho za Kristo kabla ya kusulubiwa na kufa kwa dhambi zetu.
They really celebrate it. They even go (to church) on Friday and Sunday. Others even began to celebrate yesterday (Thursday) as well. They sing, they talk about the last days of Christ, before he was crucified and died for our sins.
Kevin: Na wakitolewa kanisani, watafanya nini?
Do people come from far to gather together for Easter?
Halako: Inategemea. Kama saa hii watu wengi wametoka Nairobi kwenda nyumbani. Wengine wanakaribisha watu kwa chakula.
It depends. Like at this time (Friday afternoon) many people have left Nairobi to go home. Others will invite people for food.
Kevin: Kwa watoto, wanafanya nini?
And for children, what do they do?
Halako: Watoto pia wanasherekea. Wananunuliwa nguo, wanasikia raha. Wanatembezwa.
Children also celebrate. They're bought clothes, they feel happy. They're taken places.
Kevin: Kwa wale ambao si Wakristo?
They celebrate but they don't go to church. Even others will go just for that one day. There's no offices now that have been opened. People are off until Tuesday. It's a day that's really respected because it's they day when Jesus died.
Kevin: Wakenya wanasherekea Pasaka?
Do Kenyans celebrate Easter?
Halako: Unaniuliza? Hata wewe unajua.
You're asking me? You know!
Kevin: Si nauliza?
I'm asking you, aren't I?
Halako: Si unajua.
But you know!
Wanasherekea sana. Hasa wanaenda Friday na Sunday. Hata wengine walianza kusherekea jana pia. Wanaimba, wanaongea mambo ya siku za mwisho za Kristo kabla ya kusulubiwa na kufa kwa dhambi zetu.
They really celebrate it. They even go (to church) on Friday and Sunday. Others even began to celebrate yesterday (Thursday) as well. They sing, they talk about the last days of Christ, before he was crucified and died for our sins.
Kevin: Na wakitolewa kanisani, watafanya nini?
And when they're let out of church, what do they do?
Halako: Wanaenda nyumbani kula chakula kilichoandaliwa. Kwa wale wanaojiweza, watapika chakula tofauti, ambacho pengine hakiliwi kila siku. Wale ambao hawana “dough,” watakula kile watakachopata. Kati ya Wakristo hufunga saumu mpaka hiyo siku wanapofungua.
They go home to eat food that has been prepared. For those who are able, they will cook different foods, like something that isn't normally eaten every day. For those who don't have any cash, they will eat whatever they can get. Some Christians fast until that day when they will break the fast.
Kevin: Wanafungua siku gani?
On what day do they break fast?
Halako: Nafikiri Jumapili. Ni siku arobaini baada ya hii siku ya kufunga.I think it's Sunday. It's forty days after they began to fast.
Kevin: Siku ya Lent, si ndiyo?That's Lent, right?
Halako: Eh.Yeah.
Kevin: Watu watakuja kutoka mbali kukusanyika kwa Pasaka?Do people come from far to gather together for Easter?
Halako: Inategemea. Kama saa hii watu wengi wametoka Nairobi kwenda nyumbani. Wengine wanakaribisha watu kwa chakula.
It depends. Like at this time (Friday afternoon) many people have left Nairobi to go home. Others will invite people for food.
Kevin: Kwa watoto, wanafanya nini?
And for children, what do they do?
Halako: Watoto pia wanasherekea. Wananunuliwa nguo, wanasikia raha. Wanatembezwa.
Children also celebrate. They're bought clothes, they feel happy. They're taken places.
Kevin: Kwa wale ambao si Wakristo?
And for those people who aren't Christians?
Halako: Wanasherekea lakini hawaendi kanisani. Hata wengine wataenda tu kwa hiyo siku moja. Saa hii hakuna ofisi ambayo imefunguliwa. Watu wako “off” mpaka Tuesday. Ni siku ambayo inajaliwa sana kwa sababu ni siku Yesu alipokufa.They celebrate but they don't go to church. Even others will go just for that one day. There's no offices now that have been opened. People are off until Tuesday. It's a day that's really respected because it's they day when Jesus died.
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
A Friend Goes to Court
The police stopped a matatu (a van converted into a mini-bus) yesterday at about 6:30 in the morning. My friend Geoffrey happened to be inside. It was a random check and for whatever reason the police decided to fine everyone for not wearing their seat belts.
Of course, one problem with this is that the police did not even bother to determine who did or did not have their seat belt on. They just assumed everyone didn't. Most people probably didn't anyway. Same as Geoffrey.
At any rate, all of them were hauled down to the police station. There, they were processed and had to await a hearing at the traffic court. While they were waiting for their case to be called, they all crammed together in a small room.
Geoffrey said the small room held 50 people, standing room only. Some people had been held there for ten days. It stunk. He waited there until noon. His case was called, he pleaded guilty, and had to pay 100/- fine. (That's a $1.50 for those of you states-side.)
He didn't get out until after 1:00 in the afternoon. Ruined his whole day.
The law isn't enforced all that often, actually. Normally the conductor or the driver will slip the police kitu kidogo (something small) to avoid any hassles. Geoffrey said these police wanted to bust somebody, to prove something to their boss. Perhaps.
At any rate, they'd save everyone a lot of time if they could just expedite the whole process. Few people will actually protest the small fine and the system should probably reflect that. (Though, of course, still allowing an avenue to contest charges.)
Corruption, of course, happens in America. And cops can single out individuals and punish them based on their own prerogative. A cop who pulls over a beautiful white girl cruising on the highway at 80mph, might not have a hard time giving just a warning. Same cop pulls over young black guy with a tricked-up car is more likely to wind up getting a speeding ticket and probably get hassled about other stuff too.
Kenya's not different in that regard, though money probably has more sway than beauty.
What's different? Going through the legal channels is time-consuming or overly burdensome. That's an environment where corruption thrives.
Of course, one problem with this is that the police did not even bother to determine who did or did not have their seat belt on. They just assumed everyone didn't. Most people probably didn't anyway. Same as Geoffrey.
At any rate, all of them were hauled down to the police station. There, they were processed and had to await a hearing at the traffic court. While they were waiting for their case to be called, they all crammed together in a small room.
Geoffrey said the small room held 50 people, standing room only. Some people had been held there for ten days. It stunk. He waited there until noon. His case was called, he pleaded guilty, and had to pay 100/- fine. (That's a $1.50 for those of you states-side.)
He didn't get out until after 1:00 in the afternoon. Ruined his whole day.
The law isn't enforced all that often, actually. Normally the conductor or the driver will slip the police kitu kidogo (something small) to avoid any hassles. Geoffrey said these police wanted to bust somebody, to prove something to their boss. Perhaps.
At any rate, they'd save everyone a lot of time if they could just expedite the whole process. Few people will actually protest the small fine and the system should probably reflect that. (Though, of course, still allowing an avenue to contest charges.)
Corruption, of course, happens in America. And cops can single out individuals and punish them based on their own prerogative. A cop who pulls over a beautiful white girl cruising on the highway at 80mph, might not have a hard time giving just a warning. Same cop pulls over young black guy with a tricked-up car is more likely to wind up getting a speeding ticket and probably get hassled about other stuff too.
Kenya's not different in that regard, though money probably has more sway than beauty.
What's different? Going through the legal channels is time-consuming or overly burdensome. That's an environment where corruption thrives.
More Pics
Some more pictures are up at our photo page on google: http://picasaweb.google.com/krwarnke
They're actually from December, but it took a long time to get them developed and scanned so we're just putting them up now. Just nine pictures from our walks around Nairobi and at Kilosiam Court.
They're actually from December, but it took a long time to get them developed and scanned so we're just putting them up now. Just nine pictures from our walks around Nairobi and at Kilosiam Court.
Monday, March 26, 2007
Nairobi's Monuments
I had a meeting with a Peace Corps Volunteer on Friday and had the opportunity to show her around Nairobi Saturday. So, for a walking tour of city center, what's there worth looking at?
1. Jomo Kenyatta statue: This statue, of the majestic-looking first president, is quite easily the best monument in all of Kenya. Kenyatta sits, wearing a traditional hat, kingly robe, and holding his horse-tail-cum-fly-whisk. It is the statue of a king. I don't think there's another one more awe-inspiring in Kenya.
The monument is located right next to the Nairobi Law Courts (now re-named "The Judiciary"?), which is the home of Kenya's highest court. Unfortunately, to get there, you have to talk to a guard and ask to be let in, or you have to through a parking lot and a back entrance, with no signs or introduction or anything. You kind of get the feeling you're trespassing.
2. Dedan Kimathi statue: This is probably now the second best statue in Kenya, which is pretty much in line with Kimathi's stature locally. Kimathi stands holding a home-made gun in one hand, and a knife in another hand. He stands defiant, resilient, a proud symbol of Kenyan resistance. (For more about Kimathi, see here.)
Erected just the other day, I must admit that, while the statue is great, the overall placement and accessibility of the monument leaves much to be desired. It's placed in the middle of the junction of Kimathi Street and Mama Ngina Street. There's no place to really stand up close to it, without dodging traffic. Also, again, no signs, no detailed explanations. Just a plaque that singles him out for his bravery and nationalism. Nothing in depth, just a snapshot.
3. Parliament: The structure itself isn't really all that amazing. There's a tower with a clock next to two unimpressive conjoined rectangles. Blah. Anyway, considering how often parliament is actually in session, it's usually pretty empty. A friend of mine wanted to take a picture, but the guards quickly put a stop to that.
(One time Halako walked by and saw a guy who was sitting on a bench near parliament get pulled off and beaten by guards as he held up his hands in self-defense. Did he do something wrong? She didn't know. All she knew is that the beating was definitely unprovoked.)
4. Uhuru Park: Former Tanzanian President Mwalimu Julius Nyerere supposedly called Uhuru Park "a little piece of Europe in Africa" (not an exact quote; uhuru, again, means "freedom"). If he actually did say such a thing, one has to wonder if it was true when he said it. It is clearly not true today. The park area is still nice, the artificial ponds are inviting. Yet the older monuments, such as the pyramid structure marking the pope's visits in 1980 and 1985, is falling apart. A large fountain nearby hasn't worked for years and is hardly inspiring.
Across the way is the Nyayo Monument. (Nyayo means "footsteps"; Kenya's second President Daniel arap Moi promised to follow in the footsteps of Kenyatta; pictured to the right) This monument, which apparently cost a million dollars to make, is still impressive.
5. Jomo Kenyatta's Mausoleum: What exactly is a mausoleum? I just looked this up on wikipedia for your benefit. I seemed to think that it had something to do with preserving the body (embalming), but that's pretty wrong. It's really just a tomb--maybe like a small stone structure where the body's buried.
Anyway, Kenya's first president (and the only one who's passed away) has a mausoleum and it's right next to the Parliament building. It's also across from the statue of Kenyatta in front of the Law Courts.
1. Jomo Kenyatta statue: This statue, of the majestic-looking first president, is quite easily the best monument in all of Kenya. Kenyatta sits, wearing a traditional hat, kingly robe, and holding his horse-tail-cum-fly-whisk. It is the statue of a king. I don't think there's another one more awe-inspiring in Kenya.
The monument is located right next to the Nairobi Law Courts (now re-named "The Judiciary"?), which is the home of Kenya's highest court. Unfortunately, to get there, you have to talk to a guard and ask to be let in, or you have to through a parking lot and a back entrance, with no signs or introduction or anything. You kind of get the feeling you're trespassing.
2. Dedan Kimathi statue: This is probably now the second best statue in Kenya, which is pretty much in line with Kimathi's stature locally. Kimathi stands holding a home-made gun in one hand, and a knife in another hand. He stands defiant, resilient, a proud symbol of Kenyan resistance. (For more about Kimathi, see here.)
Erected just the other day, I must admit that, while the statue is great, the overall placement and accessibility of the monument leaves much to be desired. It's placed in the middle of the junction of Kimathi Street and Mama Ngina Street. There's no place to really stand up close to it, without dodging traffic. Also, again, no signs, no detailed explanations. Just a plaque that singles him out for his bravery and nationalism. Nothing in depth, just a snapshot.
3. Parliament: The structure itself isn't really all that amazing. There's a tower with a clock next to two unimpressive conjoined rectangles. Blah. Anyway, considering how often parliament is actually in session, it's usually pretty empty. A friend of mine wanted to take a picture, but the guards quickly put a stop to that.
(One time Halako walked by and saw a guy who was sitting on a bench near parliament get pulled off and beaten by guards as he held up his hands in self-defense. Did he do something wrong? She didn't know. All she knew is that the beating was definitely unprovoked.)
4. Uhuru Park: Former Tanzanian President Mwalimu Julius Nyerere supposedly called Uhuru Park "a little piece of Europe in Africa" (not an exact quote; uhuru, again, means "freedom"). If he actually did say such a thing, one has to wonder if it was true when he said it. It is clearly not true today. The park area is still nice, the artificial ponds are inviting. Yet the older monuments, such as the pyramid structure marking the pope's visits in 1980 and 1985, is falling apart. A large fountain nearby hasn't worked for years and is hardly inspiring.
Across the way is the Nyayo Monument. (Nyayo means "footsteps"; Kenya's second President Daniel arap Moi promised to follow in the footsteps of Kenyatta; pictured to the right) This monument, which apparently cost a million dollars to make, is still impressive.
5. Jomo Kenyatta's Mausoleum: What exactly is a mausoleum? I just looked this up on wikipedia for your benefit. I seemed to think that it had something to do with preserving the body (embalming), but that's pretty wrong. It's really just a tomb--maybe like a small stone structure where the body's buried.
Anyway, Kenya's first president (and the only one who's passed away) has a mausoleum and it's right next to the Parliament building. It's also across from the statue of Kenyatta in front of the Law Courts.
The other day we stood off in the distance a little and I explained that that's where Kenyatta was buried and that they won't let you inside or take pictures. Also that guards dressed up in these great red uniforms keep watch, though I didn't see any at the time.
Just then a guard came out of a small structure to let a worker through the gate. He called us over and asked what the problem was. Yes, standing outside of a national historical site prompts a "What's the problem?" We had none and walked away.
But it's interesting how the same president who kept Parliament and the Courts weak happens to be identified so close to those institutions....
6. War Memorial Statues: On Kenyatta Avenue, you'll find a statue of three African soldiers standing next to each other. Unfortunately, this monument is even less visible than the others. It's in the strip of land between traffic (what's that called?) and getting to it involves weaving through parked cars, dodging traffic, winding around a tree and crowding right up next to the thing.
But it's a memorial for the Africans who fought and died in both World War One and World War Two. I don't know those figures, and I'm not really sure if they're recorded as such. But the British colonial government definitely did recruit Africans to participate in that war (particularly the Asian front, to my understanding). Needless to say, those soldiers who survived the war were devastated to return home and find themselves still treated as third-class citizens.
7. Bizarre Monument to a White Man Who Devised the Road System in Kenya: I love this monument because I really don't understand it. It's also on Kenyatta Avenue, right next to the main post office (GPO). It's a box like structure that features engraved markings of the routes he devised and their distances. I don't remember the guy's name and neither does anyone else, actually. On top of the box is something like a globe, I think.
Anyway, the whole thing is enclosed in this black cage structure with a sharp edged top to keep out vandals, I assume. Did anyone ever think that this was a good structure?
8. Bookpoint and Prestige Bookstores: Yes, I'm nerdy. But it was a valuable visit b
ecause I got my friend some books on Dholuo, one of the most commonly spoken languages in Kenya, but not very commonly read or written. Hope they'll be useful in boosting her fluency.
6. War Memorial Statues: On Kenyatta Avenue, you'll find a statue of three African soldiers standing next to each other. Unfortunately, this monument is even less visible than the others. It's in the strip of land between traffic (what's that called?) and getting to it involves weaving through parked cars, dodging traffic, winding around a tree and crowding right up next to the thing.
But it's a memorial for the Africans who fought and died in both World War One and World War Two. I don't know those figures, and I'm not really sure if they're recorded as such. But the British colonial government definitely did recruit Africans to participate in that war (particularly the Asian front, to my understanding). Needless to say, those soldiers who survived the war were devastated to return home and find themselves still treated as third-class citizens.
7. Bizarre Monument to a White Man Who Devised the Road System in Kenya: I love this monument because I really don't understand it. It's also on Kenyatta Avenue, right next to the main post office (GPO). It's a box like structure that features engraved markings of the routes he devised and their distances. I don't remember the guy's name and neither does anyone else, actually. On top of the box is something like a globe, I think.
Anyway, the whole thing is enclosed in this black cage structure with a sharp edged top to keep out vandals, I assume. Did anyone ever think that this was a good structure?
8. Bookpoint and Prestige Bookstores: Yes, I'm nerdy. But it was a valuable visit b
ecause I got my friend some books on Dholuo, one of the most commonly spoken languages in Kenya, but not very commonly read or written. Hope they'll be useful in boosting her fluency.9. Kenyatta International Conference Center: This conference center (pictured on the right) calls itself something like Africa's best. Umm... Maybe. Probably the best in East Africa, but I imagine there's better in South Africa. Besides, while the building is closely identified with Nairobi, It's actually pretty ugly, along with the strange cone-shaped structure that reminds me of a vehicle designed to land on the moon.
Note: I published this Monday and did some updating Tuesday...
Thursday, March 22, 2007
MacGyver Meets West Wing in Kenya
I'm not sure when it started, but by the time I got back from Kenya, my brother's attachment to the TV show '24' was strong. He spends the entire TV season avoiding it. Trying not to watch commercials, read news articles, listen to water cooler conversations, and, of course, the TV show itself.
The show, which is like 'MacGyver' meets 'West Wing', is set into 24 episodes, each an hour long, representing a hellacious day in the life of counter-terrorist Jack Bauer. While always on the right 'moral' side of the equation, he often finds himself on the wrong 'legal' side in individual situations, which makes him a vital asset and a dangerous ally for the domestic security bureaucracy.
My brother watches '24' on DVD only. He does this so that he can watching them straight through, all eighteen hours in one sitting. “I watch it like Jack lives it,” he's told me more than once. He says this with pride, though he's aware that this pushes him toward the dubious category of being a fanatic.
Perhaps that is why he's not just content watching '24'. He pushes it onto his friends, loaning them the DVDs. And many of them find themselves wrapped up in Jack Bauer's world. Everyone is a possible target, everyone is a possible betrayer.
A few months ago, Geoffrey, an officemate of mine, asked me if I had ever heard of the show '24.' Of course I had and I suspected he was talking about it because it's being shown on one of the local stations (KTN; one of five, not four, local stations like I had previously written).
He told me that he had bought a pirated VCD of '24' and just watched all of Season Five the previous Friday. He too watched it “like Jack lives it.” Geoffrey lent it to us. It took us about three weeks, but we finished it.
'24' is now one of Halako's favorite shows.
We just bought a pirated version of Season One. It cost 250/- ($3). You can buy them openly on the streets and few people even seem to be aware that these are pirated. The police doesn't usually bother to enforce copyright restrictions and it's the heart of its own booning business.
I didn't think Halako would enjoy it as much as she does. The show is very fast paced, and hangs on suspension created by subtleties in the dialog, which is American English. Thankfully whoever put together the VCD burned it with subtitles. (Though the subtitles strangely replace all the lowercase l's with uppercase I's.)
(For all my linguistic ambitions coming to Kenya, I've found that Halako and I still primarily communicate in Swahili, though we've added a lot of English these past few months. Call it the Nairobi Effect. But I'm not entirely comfortable using my American English and slang American English with her. I probably should so that I can challenge her, but I'm not sure that constantly challenging in this way would be good for our relationship.)
We've watched a few American movies together and Halako isn't always the biggest fan. She was moved by World Trade Center, intrigued by The Last King of Scotland, but bored by Die Hard, Nowhere in Africa, and a couple of other random movies.
For Halako, most of these movies don't even hold a candle to a more local product: Nigerian movies. We'll save that topic for another time.
The show, which is like 'MacGyver' meets 'West Wing', is set into 24 episodes, each an hour long, representing a hellacious day in the life of counter-terrorist Jack Bauer. While always on the right 'moral' side of the equation, he often finds himself on the wrong 'legal' side in individual situations, which makes him a vital asset and a dangerous ally for the domestic security bureaucracy.
My brother watches '24' on DVD only. He does this so that he can watching them straight through, all eighteen hours in one sitting. “I watch it like Jack lives it,” he's told me more than once. He says this with pride, though he's aware that this pushes him toward the dubious category of being a fanatic.
Perhaps that is why he's not just content watching '24'. He pushes it onto his friends, loaning them the DVDs. And many of them find themselves wrapped up in Jack Bauer's world. Everyone is a possible target, everyone is a possible betrayer.
A few months ago, Geoffrey, an officemate of mine, asked me if I had ever heard of the show '24.' Of course I had and I suspected he was talking about it because it's being shown on one of the local stations (KTN; one of five, not four, local stations like I had previously written).
He told me that he had bought a pirated VCD of '24' and just watched all of Season Five the previous Friday. He too watched it “like Jack lives it.” Geoffrey lent it to us. It took us about three weeks, but we finished it.
'24' is now one of Halako's favorite shows.
We just bought a pirated version of Season One. It cost 250/- ($3). You can buy them openly on the streets and few people even seem to be aware that these are pirated. The police doesn't usually bother to enforce copyright restrictions and it's the heart of its own booning business.
I didn't think Halako would enjoy it as much as she does. The show is very fast paced, and hangs on suspension created by subtleties in the dialog, which is American English. Thankfully whoever put together the VCD burned it with subtitles. (Though the subtitles strangely replace all the lowercase l's with uppercase I's.)
(For all my linguistic ambitions coming to Kenya, I've found that Halako and I still primarily communicate in Swahili, though we've added a lot of English these past few months. Call it the Nairobi Effect. But I'm not entirely comfortable using my American English and slang American English with her. I probably should so that I can challenge her, but I'm not sure that constantly challenging in this way would be good for our relationship.)
We've watched a few American movies together and Halako isn't always the biggest fan. She was moved by World Trade Center, intrigued by The Last King of Scotland, but bored by Die Hard, Nowhere in Africa, and a couple of other random movies.
For Halako, most of these movies don't even hold a candle to a more local product: Nigerian movies. We'll save that topic for another time.
Sunday, March 11, 2007
A Trip to Bookpoint
I went into Bookpoint yesterday looking for two books: Tom Mboya's The Challenge of Nationhood, and Jaramogi Oginga Odinga's Not Yet Uhuru. (Uhuru translates to independent or free.) Both Mboya and Oginga Odinga are among the most important Kenyan historical figures.
Both of these books are written in English. As is nearly every book in Bookpoint, perhaps the premier bookstore in downtown Nairobi.
English is the language of education in this country; it is the language of elites. Politicians give elaborate, technical speeches in English and then offer summaries or calls to action in Swahili. Kenya's middle and upper classes prefer to raise their kids in English. Swahili and Kenya's other 42 languages are not languages of mobility.
Walking the streets of Nairobi, however, you'll hear that Swahili is still used as an informal language. People of all walks of life, from the ones wearing fancy business suits, to the visitors from the village, all find Swahili as a more casual way for people to talk to each other.
But just because people talk Swahili, it doesn't mean they read it. Throughout primary and secondary school, students are taught all subjects in English and the books they have to read are in English. (Exception being Swahili, of course.) The Swahili newspaper, Taifa Leo, is mostly ignored. A co-worker says he doesn't know enough Swahili to read it, though he speaks to most of his friends in Swahili.
After a bit of searching, past the aisles of books from American and European publishers, along the back wall filled with books on medicine, self-help, cooking, and fiction, you'll find in the right-hand corner a couple shelves of books from local publishers. I found Mboya's book and was told that Oginga Odinga's book was now being republished or reprinted.
I was just about to leave when I found books written in Swahili and Kikuyu. Unlike the English books, which sit on shelves, these are stacked out of the way, on the top of another bookshelf. Of the 50 or so different titles, six or seven were written in Kikuyu. The remaining books can be divided into four categories: books required for primary/secondary school (15 or so books), random literature (10 books), detective stories (five books), and children's books (10 books).
Unable to resist, I picked up the following books: Kilio cha Haki (The Cry of Justice), Kaburi Bila Msalaba (The Grave Without a Cross), Mkaguzi Mkuu wa Serikali (The Government Inspector by Nikolai Gogol), Shamba la Wanyama (Animal Farm by George Orwell). The Swahili books are also cheap: two to three bucks, brand new.
More expensive is the book Kizuizini (In Detention, $8). It's a new book from a new publisher, Kwani? They've recently begun publishing books from African authors—mostly Kenyan, but also seem to have a thing for the Nigerian author, Chimamanda Adichie, republishing three of her books. Their most interesting work has been a literary journal that they've put out three times in the past. Collections of poetry, short fiction, articles, biographies, and art.
Kizuizini is, of course, published in Swahili. The homepage of Kwani? claims that it's the first book to be published in Swahili in Kenya in 17 years. That might very well be true. Kwani?, following the lead of Ngũgĩ wa Thiong'o, has advocated for authors to embrace the language that average Kenyans actually speak, instead of depending on Western languages. That would mean Swahili. (In the third volume of the Kwani? journal, they specifically pushed for Sheng, a Nairobi dialect.)
But English is firmly entrenched as the language of high education and high culture. Many Kenyans don't care to read Swahili and complain that writing Swahili is too difficult. That's due to the priority that the Kenyan school system gives to English over Swahili. And that seems unlikely to change in the foreseeable future.
A trip to Bookpoint ten years from now will still show English books completely dwarfing other languages. As a linguist from the University of Nairobi told me, “English is an African language. That's the reality.”
Both of these books are written in English. As is nearly every book in Bookpoint, perhaps the premier bookstore in downtown Nairobi.
English is the language of education in this country; it is the language of elites. Politicians give elaborate, technical speeches in English and then offer summaries or calls to action in Swahili. Kenya's middle and upper classes prefer to raise their kids in English. Swahili and Kenya's other 42 languages are not languages of mobility.
Walking the streets of Nairobi, however, you'll hear that Swahili is still used as an informal language. People of all walks of life, from the ones wearing fancy business suits, to the visitors from the village, all find Swahili as a more casual way for people to talk to each other.
But just because people talk Swahili, it doesn't mean they read it. Throughout primary and secondary school, students are taught all subjects in English and the books they have to read are in English. (Exception being Swahili, of course.) The Swahili newspaper, Taifa Leo, is mostly ignored. A co-worker says he doesn't know enough Swahili to read it, though he speaks to most of his friends in Swahili.
After a bit of searching, past the aisles of books from American and European publishers, along the back wall filled with books on medicine, self-help, cooking, and fiction, you'll find in the right-hand corner a couple shelves of books from local publishers. I found Mboya's book and was told that Oginga Odinga's book was now being republished or reprinted.
I was just about to leave when I found books written in Swahili and Kikuyu. Unlike the English books, which sit on shelves, these are stacked out of the way, on the top of another bookshelf. Of the 50 or so different titles, six or seven were written in Kikuyu. The remaining books can be divided into four categories: books required for primary/secondary school (15 or so books), random literature (10 books), detective stories (five books), and children's books (10 books).
Unable to resist, I picked up the following books: Kilio cha Haki (The Cry of Justice), Kaburi Bila Msalaba (The Grave Without a Cross), Mkaguzi Mkuu wa Serikali (The Government Inspector by Nikolai Gogol), Shamba la Wanyama (Animal Farm by George Orwell). The Swahili books are also cheap: two to three bucks, brand new.
More expensive is the book Kizuizini (In Detention, $8). It's a new book from a new publisher, Kwani? They've recently begun publishing books from African authors—mostly Kenyan, but also seem to have a thing for the Nigerian author, Chimamanda Adichie, republishing three of her books. Their most interesting work has been a literary journal that they've put out three times in the past. Collections of poetry, short fiction, articles, biographies, and art.
Kizuizini is, of course, published in Swahili. The homepage of Kwani? claims that it's the first book to be published in Swahili in Kenya in 17 years. That might very well be true. Kwani?, following the lead of Ngũgĩ wa Thiong'o, has advocated for authors to embrace the language that average Kenyans actually speak, instead of depending on Western languages. That would mean Swahili. (In the third volume of the Kwani? journal, they specifically pushed for Sheng, a Nairobi dialect.)
But English is firmly entrenched as the language of high education and high culture. Many Kenyans don't care to read Swahili and complain that writing Swahili is too difficult. That's due to the priority that the Kenyan school system gives to English over Swahili. And that seems unlikely to change in the foreseeable future.
A trip to Bookpoint ten years from now will still show English books completely dwarfing other languages. As a linguist from the University of Nairobi told me, “English is an African language. That's the reality.”
Monday, February 26, 2007
New Reads
Some pretty interesting articles came my way and I've added them to the "interesting reads" seciton on the left. A story about the very interesting history of the boardgame Monopoly, how praise for smarts may be more damaging than helpful for children (and by extension, adults?), and remember all of those famous quotes you thought people said? Guess what, they never actually said them!
Update: Another good link about how internet is changing the next generation.
Update: Another good link about how internet is changing the next generation.
The British "Civilizing" Mission in Kenya: Terror, Torture, Murder
There's an old TV show that's regularly shown on KBC (government-owned; one of the four local tv stations) that is a comedy about Britain's colonial "civilizing mission" in Kenya. While sitting in an office with some Deaf Kenyans, one of the episodes came on. I missed the beginning, but figured out that there was a thief loose and the friendly, fair British colonial officer, along with his African policemen, were having difficulty tracking him down.
Apparently the show also involves a lion—one that in this case happened to take control of a land rover and was driving it around the camp. I think a monkey was also involved. Somehow the lion discovered the thief, managed to get a rope around the his legs and dragged him all over the camp, finally leaving him at the feet of the African police officers who took him into custody.
Everyone had a great laugh.
Those images immediately shot through my mind when I came across this passage in Imperial Reckoning: The Untold Story of Britain's Gulag in Kenya:
"On other occasions members of the security forces would take captured Mau Mau fighters, rope them to the back of Land Rovers, and drive them around the villages, leaving bits of body parts in their wake."
The joke on the TV show—consciously or not—was based on a horrific reality.
Reading this book has been absolutely shocking for me. I've lived in Kenya for a total of almost three years now, and this book has made me look at this country through different eyes. The systematic, brutal, inhumane, and outright sadistic torture inflicted on Mau Mau “suspects” is so chilling, so disturbing, that it seems beyond belief.
The British colonial government, acting through its own agents, Kikuyu loyalists, and the white settler population, was complicit in it all. Its detention facilities, "interrogation" and "rehabilitation" tactics, and overall “counterinsurgency” bare a shocking resemblance to Nazi Germany.
I wish this was exaggeration. It is not.
The colonial government did not outright try to exterminate the Kikuyu population, which would have been genocide. Instead, it split the Kikuyu population into “loyalists” and “Mau Mau.” These “loyalists” traded their support for the colonial government for land, wealth, and power. The Mau Mau was a group of fighters who argued that their land and freedom had been stolen from them by the whites. (The Kikuyu were most affected by the British land grabs.)
After a couple brutal attacks on whites and a number of vicious attacks against loyalists, panic spread through the white settler community and the colonial government was forced to act. The Mau-Mau fighters, with no real technology, were no match for the British. Most were overcome in the forests in just two years. They had no real technology and were no match for the British military.
The colonial government then turned its attention to the civilian population. Many Kikuyu still supported the Mau Mau movement and they were seen as real threats to the settlers and the Kikuyu loyalists. The government decided that to end Mau Mau, one had to crush it forcefully.
Elkins's book reveals how British colonial officials (and, to some extent, the top levels of British government, including the champion of liberty, justice, and Western values: British Prime Minister Winston Churchill) explicitly approved, defended, or implicitly supported the following methods for dealing with Mau Mau:
1) summary executions
2) random murders (i.e. group 100 detainees Mau Mau together; randomly choose 30 and kill them to instill fear in the remaining 70)
3) torture by rape (also gang-rape, public rape), sodomy, sexual mutilation and sexual violence (castration, use of foreign objects designed to inflict pain or damage sexual organs)
4) torture by relentless unprovoked physical beatings often resulting in death
5) awful health standards in the camp that spread infectious disease
6) humiliation to individuals and groups (forcing people to eat feces, be covered in feces)
7) slave labor
8) forced starvations and severe water deprivation
The list goes on and on.
Reading this book is like reading a story about genocide. It begins with a massive and effective dehumanization campaign. The enemy becomes inhuman: they are barbaric animals, filthy scum that need to be eliminated.
Once the enemy is dehumanized, societies morph. The previously unthinkable becomes possible, necessary, or even desirable. In such circumstances, a handful of individuals unleash the sheer evil that lurks inside of them. Then this becomes infectious. More people find themselves doing and acting the same. Society tolerates it, seeing it as necessary for the larger cause: keeping the British colony, protecting the white settler population and its supporters, and “civilizing” the filthy, uncivilized, barbaric Mau Mau.
What's shaken me isn't just that the British colonial government did these awful things, or even that they managed to cover it up so well and portray Kenyan colonialism as a success story in its civilizing mission. What really gets me is how much this explains Kenya today.
When Jomo Kenyatta came to power, there was no Truth and Reconciliation trials. No one—black or white—was held accountable for what happened. Kenyatta said forgive and forget. Coming from a man who was widely (and falsely) seen as the leader of Mau Mau and who had been imprisoned under inhospitable conditions for eight years, even Mau Mau supporters heeded his call.
But Kenyatta never did support Mau Mau. He had spoken out against the movement a number of times before his imprisonment and during his prison time did nothing to support the movement and gave his approval to his son Peter, who “confessed” his Mau Mau sympathies, became employed in the security forces, and brutally tortured Mau Mau detainees.
Kenyatta inherited the colonial government that was held together by corruption and loyalty and earned legitimacy not through fairness, justice, or trust, but rather terroristic violence against the people. He did nothing to change it. People got rich not for their talent or skills, but for their thuggery and loyalty. And the average person was left with nothing.
It deepens my understanding of why the Kikuyu are so closely linked all across the country with violence, corruption, and opportunism. Why the police are more feared than trusted. Why force is more important than justice. Why loyalty to people is more important than loyalty to principle. Why corruption is so ingrained in Kenya.
More so, it explains why Kenyans aren't taught these stories. Why they don't learn about the horrific injustices they endured. Because it's an indictment of the country's founding father and the national myth this country was built on. Because it's a danger to white settlers. Because it's a danger to Kikuyu loyalists. Because it reveals the sad truth that this was not a country built on the backs of freedom fighters, but a government built on murder, torture, lies, deceptions, corruption, and opportunism.
This does not mean all Kenyans should hang their heads in shame. As Elkins clearly demonstrates, throughout the Mau Mau conflict there were numerous heroes. People who endured extraordinary torture and refused to die, refused to give up or give in, all in the hope of freedom. From the loyalist guards who covertly helped detainees pass letters to British politicians and newspapers to those who found themselves doing whatever they could to help, at great personal risk.
At the end of it all, it's clear that the detention and rehabilitation centers killed thousands of people and left the Kikuyu population decimated, not to mention completely traumatized. Elkins estimates that, while no complete records exist, population figures suggest that the Kikuyu population was anywhere from 100,000-300,000 smaller than could be normally expected (not only through death, but through a lower reproductive rate due to sexual mutilation, nutritional deficiencies, separation of women from men, disease, etc).
Elkins won a Pulitzer for her work and she deserves it. As she makes clear, however, neither the British nor Kenyan governments have any desire to rekindle this tragic history. For the thousands who died under the ruthless, sadistic terror and torture of the British colonial government and the thousands more who survived, only to see their torturers continue to lord over them, justice will never be theirs.
Disclaimer: This is a summary of a very complex event. I'm skipping over tons of details and simplifying a lot. Don't write a homework report based on this. This is a blog.
Apparently the show also involves a lion—one that in this case happened to take control of a land rover and was driving it around the camp. I think a monkey was also involved. Somehow the lion discovered the thief, managed to get a rope around the his legs and dragged him all over the camp, finally leaving him at the feet of the African police officers who took him into custody.
Everyone had a great laugh.
Those images immediately shot through my mind when I came across this passage in Imperial Reckoning: The Untold Story of Britain's Gulag in Kenya:
"On other occasions members of the security forces would take captured Mau Mau fighters, rope them to the back of Land Rovers, and drive them around the villages, leaving bits of body parts in their wake."
The joke on the TV show—consciously or not—was based on a horrific reality.
Reading this book has been absolutely shocking for me. I've lived in Kenya for a total of almost three years now, and this book has made me look at this country through different eyes. The systematic, brutal, inhumane, and outright sadistic torture inflicted on Mau Mau “suspects” is so chilling, so disturbing, that it seems beyond belief.
The British colonial government, acting through its own agents, Kikuyu loyalists, and the white settler population, was complicit in it all. Its detention facilities, "interrogation" and "rehabilitation" tactics, and overall “counterinsurgency” bare a shocking resemblance to Nazi Germany.
I wish this was exaggeration. It is not.
The colonial government did not outright try to exterminate the Kikuyu population, which would have been genocide. Instead, it split the Kikuyu population into “loyalists” and “Mau Mau.” These “loyalists” traded their support for the colonial government for land, wealth, and power. The Mau Mau was a group of fighters who argued that their land and freedom had been stolen from them by the whites. (The Kikuyu were most affected by the British land grabs.)
After a couple brutal attacks on whites and a number of vicious attacks against loyalists, panic spread through the white settler community and the colonial government was forced to act. The Mau-Mau fighters, with no real technology, were no match for the British. Most were overcome in the forests in just two years. They had no real technology and were no match for the British military.
The colonial government then turned its attention to the civilian population. Many Kikuyu still supported the Mau Mau movement and they were seen as real threats to the settlers and the Kikuyu loyalists. The government decided that to end Mau Mau, one had to crush it forcefully.
Elkins's book reveals how British colonial officials (and, to some extent, the top levels of British government, including the champion of liberty, justice, and Western values: British Prime Minister Winston Churchill) explicitly approved, defended, or implicitly supported the following methods for dealing with Mau Mau:
1) summary executions
2) random murders (i.e. group 100 detainees Mau Mau together; randomly choose 30 and kill them to instill fear in the remaining 70)
3) torture by rape (also gang-rape, public rape), sodomy, sexual mutilation and sexual violence (castration, use of foreign objects designed to inflict pain or damage sexual organs)
4) torture by relentless unprovoked physical beatings often resulting in death
5) awful health standards in the camp that spread infectious disease
6) humiliation to individuals and groups (forcing people to eat feces, be covered in feces)
7) slave labor
8) forced starvations and severe water deprivation
The list goes on and on.
Reading this book is like reading a story about genocide. It begins with a massive and effective dehumanization campaign. The enemy becomes inhuman: they are barbaric animals, filthy scum that need to be eliminated.
Once the enemy is dehumanized, societies morph. The previously unthinkable becomes possible, necessary, or even desirable. In such circumstances, a handful of individuals unleash the sheer evil that lurks inside of them. Then this becomes infectious. More people find themselves doing and acting the same. Society tolerates it, seeing it as necessary for the larger cause: keeping the British colony, protecting the white settler population and its supporters, and “civilizing” the filthy, uncivilized, barbaric Mau Mau.
What's shaken me isn't just that the British colonial government did these awful things, or even that they managed to cover it up so well and portray Kenyan colonialism as a success story in its civilizing mission. What really gets me is how much this explains Kenya today.
When Jomo Kenyatta came to power, there was no Truth and Reconciliation trials. No one—black or white—was held accountable for what happened. Kenyatta said forgive and forget. Coming from a man who was widely (and falsely) seen as the leader of Mau Mau and who had been imprisoned under inhospitable conditions for eight years, even Mau Mau supporters heeded his call.
But Kenyatta never did support Mau Mau. He had spoken out against the movement a number of times before his imprisonment and during his prison time did nothing to support the movement and gave his approval to his son Peter, who “confessed” his Mau Mau sympathies, became employed in the security forces, and brutally tortured Mau Mau detainees.
Kenyatta inherited the colonial government that was held together by corruption and loyalty and earned legitimacy not through fairness, justice, or trust, but rather terroristic violence against the people. He did nothing to change it. People got rich not for their talent or skills, but for their thuggery and loyalty. And the average person was left with nothing.
It deepens my understanding of why the Kikuyu are so closely linked all across the country with violence, corruption, and opportunism. Why the police are more feared than trusted. Why force is more important than justice. Why loyalty to people is more important than loyalty to principle. Why corruption is so ingrained in Kenya.
More so, it explains why Kenyans aren't taught these stories. Why they don't learn about the horrific injustices they endured. Because it's an indictment of the country's founding father and the national myth this country was built on. Because it's a danger to white settlers. Because it's a danger to Kikuyu loyalists. Because it reveals the sad truth that this was not a country built on the backs of freedom fighters, but a government built on murder, torture, lies, deceptions, corruption, and opportunism.
This does not mean all Kenyans should hang their heads in shame. As Elkins clearly demonstrates, throughout the Mau Mau conflict there were numerous heroes. People who endured extraordinary torture and refused to die, refused to give up or give in, all in the hope of freedom. From the loyalist guards who covertly helped detainees pass letters to British politicians and newspapers to those who found themselves doing whatever they could to help, at great personal risk.
At the end of it all, it's clear that the detention and rehabilitation centers killed thousands of people and left the Kikuyu population decimated, not to mention completely traumatized. Elkins estimates that, while no complete records exist, population figures suggest that the Kikuyu population was anywhere from 100,000-300,000 smaller than could be normally expected (not only through death, but through a lower reproductive rate due to sexual mutilation, nutritional deficiencies, separation of women from men, disease, etc).
Elkins won a Pulitzer for her work and she deserves it. As she makes clear, however, neither the British nor Kenyan governments have any desire to rekindle this tragic history. For the thousands who died under the ruthless, sadistic terror and torture of the British colonial government and the thousands more who survived, only to see their torturers continue to lord over them, justice will never be theirs.
Disclaimer: This is a summary of a very complex event. I'm skipping over tons of details and simplifying a lot. Don't write a homework report based on this. This is a blog.
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